theo and the three bears | shenandoah sunset hike

"If I'm not at the overlook by 8:15, meet me back at the trail head," I said, glancing down at my phone to check the time - 7:35pm. I had 40 minutes to get just under 2 miles with 300-400 feet of elevation gain. It wouldn't be a difficult hike, but then, I'd never speed hiked before. (I wondered briefly if that could be a new Olympic Sport. Speed walking made the cut, after all...)

Theo and I were meeting Zander at Hogback Overlook, a short distance away from Matthew's Arm Campground in Shenandoah National Park. Our tent was upright and our campfire pit was begging to be blazing and roasting marshmallows. After setting up camp, we rushed over to the Traces trailhead to embark on a sunset hike.

Less than 100 feet up the trail, Zander tweaked his knee, and I convinced him to drive to the overlook, uncork a bottle of wine, and wait for Theo and me to hike there to watch the sun sink down over the Blue Ride Mountains. Reluctantly, he agreed - I'm sure more nervous to leave me to navigate directions than concerned about any danger befalling us.

He might have had reason to worry...

Theo and I picked up our pace and reached the first trail market (0.4 miles) in barely more than a handful of minutes. I reached for the trail map, realizing I had nowhere to reach - I hadn't brought anything with me but my phone. Theo looked at me quizzically, as if to say, "Weren't you the one that thought this through, Mom?" Good question, Theo. We had no flashlight and no map. I knew it was a simple hike - straight up Traces Trail with one turn on the Appalachian Trail. The sun was falling to my right side, so I assumed I would turn right on the AT to cross over Skyline Drive into Hogback Overlook. No big deal. We had this.

The Appalachian Trail was 0.8 miles ahead, and it was already almost 7:45. I ran through the worst case scenarios: we had no reception, but if something major happened, I could make an emergency call. I could use my phone as a flashlight if we were forced to turn around to meet Zan at the trail head. I could yell really, really loudly, and hope my voice carried through the trees? Scratch that one.

With my mind full of what-ifs and how-would-I-handle's, I almost tripped over Theo, haunches raised, blocking the trail with one paw in the woods. He emitted a low growl, and I stopped to listen. I called his name, trying to calm him down - he goes nuts after squirrels and rabbits and anything that moves. But this was different - he usually chases animals, but in this instance he was completely still, hunkered down, eyes trained in one direction. I followed his gaze until my eyes rested on three black bears running on all fours in the distance.

I thought I'd gone crazy. I'd never seen a bear - not even ONCE - in the wild, and I've hiked in Shenandoah numerous times and worked for two summers in the San Bernardino Mountains in California - bear country if there ever was one. They had to be dogs? Another animal? But my eyes weren't lying. Their shoulders were too broad to be any other animal, and they were coated in thick, black fur. These were bears. Fascinated, I watched them run off; likely, they heard and smelled Theo and me and ran right away.

We continued on the trail, and I became even more concerned about the time. Even so, I couldn't help but stop for a second to admire and snap a few photos of the golden light angling through the trees, creating geometrical patterns and prisms on the forest floor.

Theo and I reached the Appalachian Trail trailhead soon after, and I confidently led us to the right, certain the overlook would be a short distance ahead. I gave Theo a quick high paw - we were going to make it! Another couple of hundred feet up the trail, Theo bounded up huge boulders on our right side. I followed him up to a trail overlook with an open, clear view of the sun setting directly in front of us. I admired the layers of the mountains, and the way the sun's fading light shone in between them.

Minutes before deadline, Theo and I emerged from the trail onto Skyline Drive. I saw an overlook sign and bounded closer to it. Rattlesnake Overlook. Where was Hogback? I had no idea where we were. 

I still didn't have enough cell service. Without a flash light or a map, I was nervous to retrace our steps on the trail in the fast approaching nightfall. I navigated Theo to the overlook and tried to flag down a car - hopefully someone could point us in right direction. I waved frantically to the first car I saw. As it slowed down and pulled over, Zander and I locked eyes, and our silence spoke volumes, something along the lines of, "Holy shit, thank god it's you!"

Zan had turned around right at 8:15 to head back to the trail head per our plan. I should have turned left at the Appalachian. Thankfully he needed to go around Skyline drive to the right, passing me on the way back to Matthew's Arm. He, too, had grown nervous and was immensely relieved to find us on the road.

I was only a mile or so away from the trail head on Skyline Drive and a little more to the campground, but hiking solo at sunset proved to be an adventure, bears and all. Next time, I'll bring a map and a flashlight. But man, that sunset was worth it.