bearnaise | where to eat in dc

"I figured it out!" Zander and I yelled in unison as we walked out of Bearnaise, a new steak frites restaurant from celebrity chef Spike Mendelsohn in Capitol Hill.

We talked over each other with our theories, laughing, hurriedly walking and shivering to the car. It went from an everlasting summer to an intemperate fall in DC in a matter of seconds, it seems.

We were talking about the table next to us at dinner - two women chatting up a storm, and a man scarfing down his food - and wine even faster - and barely saying a word. The two women seemed like friends who were still getting to know each other at times, and at others like long lost soulmates, finding their way back to one another.

As we received our soup or salad course - the first of three in the prix fixe menu - the group next to us were finishing theirs. The older of the two women, dressed fashionably in a black shawl and boots with sleek, straight hair, flirted with the server just enough to get the extra touches: "try this sauce," and "maybe I should get you soup instead of a salad."

Zan and I communicated verbally about our soups - I savored every bit of the salty cheese and carmelized onions in my French Onion, and he lauded the unique balance of flavors in the creamy fall vegetable soup he tried. And we talked nonverbally about the interesting table next to us... They were fairly loud and boisterous - an excited energy about them.

"What's their story?" we silently asked each other.

We got a few clues throughout the meal.

We observed the table order mussels and banter over whose sauce was best while we chowed down on 14 ounce ribeyes. I couldn't finish mine, but I made a valiant attempt that left me over-the-top (of my jeans) full. But it was seasoned just right, and the server was weirdly brusque when I asked his opinion about the four sauces offered with the steak frites, "I don't know. I just don't like it." But he was wrong about the spicy bearnaise, and it was delectable.

Meanwhile, the younger woman got up to use the restroom, and the older woman engaged the guy - it seemed like she wanted to get to know him. And she referenced a flight in the morning - was she here for work, or specifically to see these two?

The server swerved around to the mystery table, who were enjoying two desserts, and the older woman - I think she was a city woman through and through - maybe from New York? - she said the spices were strange in the apple tart, and that brusque server turned smiley and sweet and wouldn't take no for an answer and brought them mousse instead. 

For the record, we had the apple tart, and the pumpkin spice in it was unique but it worked and it tasted like apple and fall and Halloween and Thanksgiving all rolled into one.

By the time we left, they were still chatting - the two women that is - and the lone ranger braving it alone at the far end of the table. As we put on our coats, we saw the older woman put down a credit card for the entire table.

"The guy is definitely the younger girl's boyfriend," I said as we neared the car. "But was he an awkward third wheel, or was he there to specifically meet the older woman?"

"I think they are sisters, and the older one is in town to meet the younger woman's new boyfriend," Zan finished his theory as we opened the doors.

I nodded. I had a hunch he might be right.

Sometimes, I'm not sure if my favorite part of trying a new restaurant is the food or the people watching. At Bearnaise, both were spectacular.

if you go...

Bearnaise

price range: $23-50/person

side dish pick: bearnaise sauce drizzled brussels sprouts

tip: all wine bottles are $40, including sparkling!