15,953 feet on cotopaxi volcano

I cried when we reached the shelter at base camp. I'd gone into our hike on Cotopaxi volcano thinking that the altitude would make it tougher but not that much tougher. We'd only be gaining 1,000-1,500 feet of elevation while hiking, and that should be nothing for me. I didn't anticipate how hard the altitude would make every step.

We reached the dirt "parking lot," where our bus let our group out to start the ascent, and I knew something wasn't right. I was the tiniest bit dizzy, my stomach the tiniest bit topsy-turvy, and my vision felt out of sorts. I felt off, and I felt it immediately. I slowly drank some water, trying to mentally calm down. I took in breaths slowly, hoping it was just nerves and the anticipation of the altitude more than the altitude itself.

Zan and I started hiking and found ourselves squarely in the middle of the pack. The guide told us if we reached base camp with enough time, we'd hike up to the glacier. We all wanted to see the glacier and picked up our pace. Even with an accelerated pace, we weren't moving quickly.

Within 10 minutes, I slowed down to a snail's pace. I would take three or four steps and need to stop to regain my balance and clear my sight. I was breathing hard and the dizziness came and went in increasingly stronger spells. Zan told me to turn back more than once. At some point - about halfway to the refuge, I started to agree with him. I knew I'd regret turning back; I'd always regret turning back. On the other hand, altitude sickness is very real and scary. I kept taking a few more steps. And then stopping for a slow sip of water and to reconsider. Step, step, and reconsider.

And then it began snowing. The trail turned from black volcanic ash and rock to pure white in a matter of minutes. The snow came down like hail, pelting us on every surface. We shielded our faces and talked through the storm. By that point, I felt nauseated. We'd long ago lost track of the majority of our group. Through the storm, we couldn't see anyone ahead of us or behind us. We walked and stalled like that, getting colder by the minute, until a group of three men, not with our group, rounded the switchback and neared us.

"You're only about 10 minutes from base camp," the guide said, pointing to a blanket of white in the distance. Clouds and the snow obscured our sight of camp, but it filled me with hope and renewed determination. Ten minutes with the long switchbacks meant we didn't have much more to gain in elevation.

We kept on like that, with Zan encouraging me, reminding me to take it slower. My biggest problem was starting out with a burst of energy, which exacerbated my headache and other symptoms. Hiking so slowly I didn't think we'd ever make it, we rounded the switchbacks one by one, until finally, the refuge came into view.

We climbed the last small hill and stumbled inside, desperate for warmth and tea. Tears pooled in my eyes. The feeling of accomplishment overwhelmed me. After a few cups of coca tea, my body started to adjust a little better, and we went outside just long enough to watch the snow storm end and the clouds break the tiniest bit. The entire volcano was covered in white.

We were standing at 15,953 feet on one of the highest active volcanoes in the world. The descent was straight down and we half walked, half slid down in the snow, the whole group re-energized from the break and the view. We weren't able to make it to the glacier because the storm made conditions hiking further up dangerous, but by then none of us cared.

We rode back down the volcano on mountain bikes; Zan was the first one down, and I was the second to last. I slowed for potholes and bumps in the ash road, and meandered to the side about 100 times to take pictures.

We booked our day trip to Cotopaxi on a whim and the recommendation of another traveler the night before. Like most unexpected things when I travel, it was a highlight of our trip.

if you go...

day trips run about $65 with a reputable group, English-speaking guide & lunch

it's doable independently - look up bus times from Quito & be prepared for freak weather

a great guide for climbing cotopaxi on the cheap

wear: hiking boots, layers, wicking & waterproof, gloves, hat

it's possible to climb to the top of Cotopaxi, but it's a technical hike with crampons & other gear

about 2-3 hours from Quito