where to stay | tulum, mexico

My favorite keepsake from Zan's and my trip to Mexico last month is a map. It's so worn it looks like we moved to Tulum and lived off of it. It fell in the ocean when we forgot it was in Zan's pocket, and it dried in the sun beside us. It has directions scribbled on it, notes jotted in the corners, unmarked beach nooks circled. It got us where we needed to go, and when we explored off the map's territory, it guided us back. It's a map of Tulum, a town whose main strip is no longer than a mile, and Tom, the owner of our hotel, handed it to us in person when we checked in.

When I finally sold Zander on Mexico, we made a deal: he said no sleeping in huts on the beach, and I said no resorts. So..... we have very different ideas of what a vacation should be, and what kind of bed it should involve. To further compromise, we decided I would be in charge of research and logistics, and he would pick the hotel.

I was terrified.

Needlessly!

Zan found Posada Luna del Sur, a small - 12 rooms - hotel owned by an American expat in Tulum pueblo, or town. It's in the center of the local scene - near the best restaurants, bars, and artisan stands. It's 3-5km from the beach - an easy bike ride or cheap taxi trip. It was perfect.

A hotel staff member greeted us when we check in and showed us to our room, a spacious one-bedroom with a queen sized bed fitted with a sheet and a small, light blanket. We had a small balcony with two chairs, overlooking palm trees. The kitchenette comes equipped with a water jug to refill water bottles (!), a sink, microwave, fridge, even a coffeemaker. The hotel is three floors, has free wi-fi, and serves a free made-to-order hot breakfast every morning. It's a dreamboat.

About five minutes after checking in - enough time to set down our suitcases, Tom knocked on the door. He handed us our beloved map. He has carefully created this beauty, marking all of his favorite restaurants and bars, a place on the beach for salsa dancing lessons, the best cenotes in the area, trustworthy bike rentals, and pretty much everything you can think of.

Since it was getting late in the evening, and we were starving, he pointed us in the direction of a few restaurants and said he'd chat more in depth with us in the morning. And that he did. After breakfast, he invited us into his personal apartment, on the third floor of the hotel, and we talked for an hour. He graciously let me go through my entire list of places to see, things to do, and let me ask logistical questions. He gave us honest answers on what was worth it and what was a tourist trap, and he even gave us some "off the map" (even better than the beaten path!) places to check out.

Mid-way through our trip, when I came down with a nasty case of Montezuma's Revenge, I was so sick Zan sought Tom out for advice. Tom drove Zander down to a pharmacy in town and acted as a translator to get the medicine he thought I needed. Those meds? Oh dear, they knocked me out, but they also knocked the nausea out of me!

When Zan wanted to book a fishing trip, Tom was stoked - told him his favorite place to go and was truly bummed out he didn't have time to take off from work to go with him.

I can't say enough good things. If you're heading to Tulum, skip the expensive resorts because, let's be honest here, the restaurants on the beach are overpriced and overrated and as authentic as McCormick's taco seasoning, and being in town is the way to do Tulum. Unless you can convince whomever your travel partner is to sleep in a hut on the beach, of course.

I want to frame our map or do something creative with it. I have a feeling no matter where I keep it, it'll lead us back to the hotel on the corner near the Subway with the flag of Mexico out front.

Posada Luna del Sur
Calle Luna Sur 5, Tulum, Quintana Roo (about 3 blocks across from the bus station, pass the Subway, walk one more block, and turn left at the Pescaderia)
Rates: $99 high season / $55 low 
Email: welcome@posadalunadelsur.com 

Tell Tom hello! And that Zander and Cyndi recommended you!