is south africa safe for tourists?

I have a history of not doing what I'm doing what I'm told. My 5th grade gymnastics coach warned me, "Don't tumble onto the floor mats before practice!" and I cartwheeled into class anyway. My mom has said, "Shhhhh" every five seconds from ages 0-27, and I've never once shut my trap. At 14, my girlfriends hesitantly cautioned me, "Maybe it's not a great idea to meet a guy off the internet?" and so I met two of them and thankfully lived to tell this tale because the internet was a scary place in 1999?

And when I studied abroad in South Africa, my program coordinators, school officials, and every certifiable adult on campus told me sternly, DO NOT RIDE THE TRAINS. 

Well, that was the wrong thing to say. Why not? Why couldn't I ride the trains? They're the cheapest mode of transportation. I wasn't going to rent a car every weekend to go to Cape Town. SO I RODE THE TRAINS. And I lived to tell the tale because maybe South Africa isn't as dangerous as the ubiquitous "they" wanted me to believe, or maybe I was just lucky. Which is it? Is South Africa dangerous for tourists? 

I might have listened if they'd said, "Don't pet the cheetah." Might.

"Crime is high, but the reputation for crime is much higher"

(quoted from CS Monitor) 

More often than not, South Africa is labeled as a murder, assault, and rape hub, and there are two major problems with that generalization: context and modern efforts to curb violence.

South Africa rightfully gained the reputation for being a violent, crime-ridden nation during its tumultuous transition to democracy. Apartheid heavily divided the country in ways too numerous and deep for me to even attempt to explore in one blog post (or a dozen). During that time - the 1980s-90s, crime rates spiked, just as they did during the American Civil War or any armed domestic dispute a nation has ever faced; in some ways, violence paved the way to overthrowing apartheid.

But that has changed. In the last decade, in particular, South Africa has worked to clean up its act. The country ranks below 10 other nations in murders and continues to fall down the list. Guatemala, a burgeoning budget travel destination, ranks above South Africa (sorry for throwing you under the bus, G!).

I'm not offering South Africa a get out of jail free card, though. The country still leads the world in rapes. Shockingly, 1 in 3 South African men admit to having raped at least one woman in their lifetime, and 1 in 4 speak out as a rape victim.

Part of the reason crime has and still is prevalent is due to a history of violence and economic disparity. South Africa is only 20% white, but it has faced white control and domination throughout most of its history. Rebellions and fighting to keep control of land and autonomy have contributed to a national mindset of fighting for survival.

Economically, the 20% white minority rules the country. Townships have developed outside of small AND big "white" cities where the poor, typically black or colored, South Africans live. Resentment and a growing desire for less income disparity between the rich and poor fuels friction within the country.

the scariest thing I saw in South Africa

None of this means that South Africa is too dangerous for tourists. 

South Africa has its problems like any other country in the world. That doesn't mean that you shouldn't visit it. I was told not to ride the trains because I could be pick-pocketed, mugged, or worse. I couldn't and wouldn't live in a bubble of fear, and neither should you. I never once feared for my safety in South Africa, and I traveled from the wealthy town of Stellenbosch to beautiful Cape Town through townships to the poorer KwaZulu-Natal coast into Durban and Kruger National Park and in Johannesburg. I traveled as part of groups and independently, and (always) as a woman.

I spent six months in South Africa, and it wasn't enough time. It's my favorite country in the world. While I can't tell you that your safety is guaranteed there, I can't say that about any country. Even in statistically safe Japan, people have their panties stolen.  

South Africa takes my breath away

Here are a few things I keep in mind no matter where I'm traveling: 

• Stay alert - Take in the sights, journal, explore, take pictures - but keep in mind your surroundings and what's going on around you. 
• Don't flaunt expensive items - put your iPod, iPad, iPhone, wallet, etc. away. Travel like a local - if those who live in the area you're traveling probably don't have those things, then don't advertise that you do. It's safe but also polite. 
• Travel in a group where possible - The best thing about traveling independently is that you're never alone - spend the day with other backpackers and travelers if you question the safety of where you're headed.
• Ride first class - We're not talking Europe or around-the-world flights here; if you're traveling in a developing country, especially independently, consider buying a first-class train or bus ticket. You may feel safer, and the cost difference is usually nominal. 

What travel smartly tips would you add to this list?