the galapagos | 2

From my journal... Read Galapagos part 1.

The highlight of being in the Galapagos is falling asleep on the beach and waking up with a sea lion pup or a giant iguana napping or sunning by your head. It happened to me yesterday afternoon. I dozed off, my book still open in the sand beside me. The book pages flapped just a little louder in the wind, and I woke with a start and came eye to eye with a sea lion pup. I jumped a little in shock, and the pup looked on wide-eyed, nonplussed as I scrambled to get my bearings. My laughter rang out over the waves until Zan's head popped up, snorkel goggles still on his eyes. He saw the tail end of the scene and lamented not getting it all on video. It would have been a good one.

My favorite spots and moments have been El Chino beach on San Cristobal, where we saw blue-footed boobies up close and a frigate nest. The water there was a shade of brilliant turquoise like I haven't seen since Koh Phi Phi in Thailand. I was certain then I'd never see water so beautiful, but a few of these Galapagos beaches come close. I also love Los Loberia, a beach on San Cristobal that's only accessible on foot. It's a sea lion reserve.

At first I was nervous around sea lions. They're territorial and defensive; they roar the second you come to close on land. I joked to Zan that they're kind of jerks. But on Loberia, they're friendlier - that is, less likely to roar in protest of your very presence - and the pups are curious and lovable.

And now I'm on Tortuga Bay on Santa Cruz island. It's said to be one of the most beautiful beaches in all of the Galapagos. When I'm thigh-deep in the ocean, I can see all the way to the bottom with the clarity of clean glass. It's so translucent and just the right amount of cold that envelops you until it starts to feel warmer under the current than above that I want to stay in the water more than on land. Every time I dip my head under the rolling, soft waves, it's so refreshing that I go back for more.

Giant iguanas are to this beach as sea lions are to Los Loberia. I like them! They don't care about humans. They do whatever they want. They're also confident, if that can be said of a reptile. The way they stand with perfect posture and their heads lifted as if in a sun salutation - they're the zen animals of the Galapagos. There are 12 giant iguanas around me that I count as I write this.

The one downside of the Galapagos beaches is the horseflies. They are as abundant as the sea lions on San Cristobal and the iguanas here. They're a nuisance. My legs are covered in their bites or stings or whatever pain they're inflicting. I finally bought repellant. Now that I've coated my body in it a dozen times or more in the last hour, I have a sneaking suspicion that it attracts the sun. Burnt or bitten: pick your poison.

I've been thinking that if I were to come back to the Galapagos - and I'd like to... maybe when I have kids - that I'd still want to do it land-based and independently instead of on a cruise. Meeting locals and participating in local culture and daily life has been the best part of our trip.

While I write this, Zan is on a day trip to Isabella island. I can't wait to hear about his experiences with flamingos, penguins, sea turtles, and friends he meets along the way. And I'll tell him about the joy and beauty and wonderment of doing nothing but being on this beach, watching the waves lap and the iguanas sun, and journaling about nothing more serious than this perfect moment -- horseflies aside.

the ship of fools

A few weekends ago, Zan and I didn't get up and moving until 1:30pm. What can I say? Pajamas, naps, homemade breakfast, and the call of the TV (ahem, House of Cards) have all been so tantalizing this winter. We haven't resisted the urge to nest. Anyway, we finally swapped out pajama pants for socially acceptable ones and hopped in Zan's truck.

With no real plans and it being a little too late in the afternoon to head out to wineries (our typical go-to on Saturdays with no plans), I suggested we check out a few lesser known tourist spots that neither of us had seen - a pretty incredible feat given that Zan grew up here!

I recently wrote a feature for Viator.com on 30 Unique Things To Do in DC. It turned out to be shockingly easy to write - it took me a mere 10-15 minutes to come up with the list of 30 things. Most of them I'd done, but there were a handful that I'd only heard rumors of... and it was time to change that.

So we headed across town to the Southwest Waterfront to see the Titanic Memorial. This statue, dedicated to the brave men who lost their lives so that women and children could be saved (because of too few life rafts, if you haven't seen the movie.... er, know the history!), depicts a women with her arms outstretched into the wind. It looks exactly like the iconic scene in the movie Titanic with Jack and Rose at the helm of the ship.

And here's where I have a giant, nerdy confession to make: I saw the movie five times in theaters. Five! I saw it so many times that my mom started to think that maybe I was pulling one over on her and was up to all kinds of teenage rebellion. Years later, she admitted that the 5th time I went, she followed me to the theater and poked her head in to see if I was really there. And there I was, sipping on a soda and mouthing the words because at that point I could quote the whole damn thing. I have an inkling she was hopeful I really was up to some old fashioned trouble making and not really seeing a movie for the fifth time... (Can we also talk about how I would not have used the same excuse 5 times in a row if I were really sneaking out and making out with boys?!)

With all that embarrassment on the table, I probably don't need to say that I loved it. It was cheesy, fun, and honestly? A beautiful monument. The sun was shining just right. The water was iced over - and that was kind of perfect when you're visiting a Titanic memorial... if not a bit morbid and sad.

I definitely quoted a monologue, downloaded "My Heart Will Go On" and had Zander film the whole scene. I know. I really thought about posting it here, but some things... Let's just say Zan and my mom have enough teasing fodder to last a lifetime.

Then we drove all the way up to Georgetown to play on the giant green Adirondack chair on the lawn of Duke Ellington School of the Arts. If I ever have kids in the city, that's where I'm taking them for play time. Who needs a jungle gym when there's an oversize chair?!

I get so caught up in being a local, and redefining that for myself with every new trend, restaurant, and up-and-coming neighborhood, that I sometimes forget how great it is to be a tourist. Especially when the attractions are little hidden gems in the nooks and crannies of this beloved city of mine.

latitude: 00° 00' 00"

In Ecuador, the exact location of the middle of the world is up for debate.

I tend to believe that the one tucked amidst dense foliage off of a dirt road is the real deal. I checked the time by the sun, balanced a raw egg on a nail vertically, and couldn't step two feet in a straight line with my eyes closed and arms outstretched because the force of the north pulling me up and the south pulling me down messed up the equilibrium in my ears, and I nearly toppled straight over. I believed it when the guide demonstrated the Coriolis Effect - the water swirling one way in the north, and the other way in the south, and just straight down on the equator. But I believed it most when I felt the full effect of the equator on my muy rojo cheeks and forehead and nose.

The Museo Intinan was discovered by GPS and is run by locals in jeans with holes in the knees. Some of them speak English, and they spoke of the native Ecuadorian tribes that still live in the Amazon jungle today. We saw the shrunken heads of men on poles - the strength and leadership of the full-sized man transferred into his captor, as his head lay buried under burning embers, its skull removed, down to nothing but the flesh, miniature enough that I gawked and still wondered, "but how is that possible?" A symbolic usurping of power; I get it. (And literal - because the man's head was on a pole, after all.) At that memorial to latitude 00.00.00, these is a playpen of guinea pigs, alive and well and adorably furry; the guide laughed and said, "Dinner!"

At the prettier tribute to the center of the earth, a stately stone monument named Mitad del Mundo rests in the center of a sprawling complex, complete with an elevator to an observation deck and an Ecuadorian museum conveniently winding its way back down the stairs. There are restaurants and gift shops - you can even have that guinea pig dinner... for $22. And I'm positive I saw an amusement-park style ride just down the road. I liked the big "S" and "N" emblazoned in the well-manicured lawn and the view stretching over endless mountains (that view is common in Ecuador).

Zan and I didn't shave our heads on the equator like the sailors once did, and really we didn't do anything legendary. But we stood on the line between North and South, one foot in each hemisphere, home and away from home, here and there, near and far, and it all felt equal because it was equidistant; the world was smaller and more reachable in its vastness, and that felt significant.

Then we got on the wrong bus and unknowingly circled around ("haven't we seen this before?") and watched a funeral procession march through town. Even in the center of the world, I have no sense of direction.

steps unsuitable for sasquatch feet | quito's basilica

The steps winding the way up to the top of the clock tower are no more than six inches wide, and they're steep, each metal stair only inches above the one below it. At 5'10" and with size 10 (wide) feet, my ascent was something out of a cartoon. I climbed up on my toes -- I only fit on each step from the tips of my toes to the balls of my feet. Had I hunched over and looked frantically from side to side a time or two to make sure a wily mouse or cat or coyote wasn't chasing me, I think animated music would have accompanied my itty bitty tinkle toe climb. But when I reached the top, all of Old Town Quito spread out before me. It was a postcard, addressed to me from blue skies and wisps of white, lightweight clouds above. The Basilica bell rang; it was Quito's finest hour. And I started my clumsy descent, side stepping one foot over the other and holding on to the wobbly rail for dear life.

if you go...

Basilica del Voto Nacional is in Quito's charming Old Town

Fee to climb the clock tower: $2

(there is sometimes a fee to enter the church)

you can take the stairs or the elevator inside the church

hours: 9:00-5:00

some history of the church

a walk in rock creek park | travel tuesday

Oh, in DC there's the White House and the Capitol Building, the National Mall, the original Constitution document and John Hancock's signature at the National Archives, and there's Dupont Circle and the Georgetown Waterfront and all the free Smithsonian museums. There's so much to see in DC that most tourists and visitors and even people who have lived here for longer than I have don't think to peek behind the stately and stunning neighborhood rowhouses to see what's hidden. But back there behind the urban beauty is Rock Creek Park, the nation's largest and oldest urban national park, spanning for 2,000 acres, filled with trail runners and cyclists. It is a bastion and an escape from the city and, honest to god, the prettiest, most underrated place in the whole of the nation's capital.

Zander and I have kind of sort of started talking about where we might want to live when we start looking for a place early next year. Three years ago, my criteria were cheap, public transportation-accessible, and happening, probably in that order. Now, my criteria is simply this: put me in walking distance to Rock Creek Park. That's it. That's all Theo and I need to be happy. And a wine bar for Zan. (Okay, and for me, too).

Next time you're in DC, put Rock Creek Park at the top of your to-do list. 

Where's your favorite spot to travel in your own backyard?

looking forward to ecuador | travel tuesday

^^photo of quilotoa crater lake, courtesy of mrthomson on flickr

My sight is all sorts of set on Ecuador in five weeks. Ecuador will be the longest trip Zan and I have taken together, and the longest short-term trip I've ever taken (not counting living abroad). In researching and planning for our trip, I'm finding that the adage, "the more money you make, the more you need" rings true for travel as well: "the more time you have, the more you need." Eighteen days felt like such a luxury of time when we booked the trip. The closer we get, and the more filled in our itinerary gets, the more time I wish we had. There are hours I spend reading about some destinations in Ecuador when I just get lost, like you do in a great novel, and I dream of moving there. After endless research that isn't nearly over yet (I still have 5 weeks!), I wanted to share some of the things I'm most looking forward to during our time in Ecuador...

Quito: I can't wait to see the world's highest capital city, at a shocking 9,350 feet - fingers crossed we handle the altitude well. Cobblestone streets, panoramic sky-high views, Spanish architectural influence, churches that make my jaw drop, everything in the Old Town, and the equator! We rented an airbnb condo and will acclimate and explore the city for 3-4 days. I'd love tips on restaurants, cafes, nightlife, hidden gems, everything!

Otavalo: This indigenous market a couple hours outside of Quito is on every single "must do" list for Ecuador I've found. I can't wait to meet locals, eat street food, and shop for belated Christmas presents for loved ones back home. Which craft or local specialty do I need to bring back?

Quilotoa Loop: I stumbled across this one, and I'm enchanted. Quilotoa Crater Lake and the loop around it, through small villages, is said to be one of the most beautiful spots in the Andes, and I can't wait to trek there. We're toying with splurging and staying at the much-lauded, award-winning Black Sheep Inn. It's a little beyond our budget, but there's a waterslide! At a beautiful inn! Should we do the day hike from the Inn in Chugchilan or try to trek from further out? We'll be in the Andes for 2-3 days, longer if time allows.

The Galapagos: Doing a traditional cruise is far out of our budget so we're going to tackle the Galapagos independently, by land. I don't have all the details worked out, but we plan to stay on 2-3 islands (Santa Cruz, Isabela, and maybe one more?) and take 1-2 day trips to other islands. Any tips on independent land based tours? We're here for 5-7 days.

Banos: The "aventure capital" of Ecuador, this city is calling - nay, YELLING, my name. I want to do a waterfall bike ride, a volcano bike ride, hike, the whole works. But I have reservations! Everything I read sounds like this fun city is a haven for tourists and expats... will I still feel like I'm in Ecuador? Should I skip this for a more traditional city like Cuenca or Guyaquil? 2-3 days

Devil's Nose Train Ride: Well, if we can get to Riobamba easily, I'd love to do this. Zan hates heights but is stoked for this fear-inducing ride straight down a mountainside.

Amazon: When we booked Ecuador, Zan and I both looked forward to going into the Amazon. Now it's looking like we need to give up something, and maybe the Amazon is what will go... with the thought that Ecuador is really known for the Galapagos and the Andes, and maybe that's what we should focus on for this trip. I'm sure we'll find our way to Bolivia or Brazil on another trip when we can put our time and energy and money into a great Amazon trip. If we do the Amazon in Ecuador, it'll only be for 2 days max. Is it okay to skip it? Should we ditch something else to do the Amazon?

If you've been to Ecuador, I'd love to hear your thoughts! What am I missing? What should hands-down, no matter what I have to give up, go in our itinerary? Or where should we stay for longer? I'm a big, big fan of places off the beaten path, the ones that will make me tear up in awe, the towns and villages and cities with character and personality, the ones that I'll want to write about endlessly to tell other travelers, you have to go.

If you haven't been, which of these places sounds the best to you? How would you divide your time? 

travel tuesday | the acropolis of athens

I explored Athens, Greece with my eyes trained upward. You can see the Acropolis nearly anywhere you are in Athens. That's the first thing that captured my attention about it. Confusedly wandering down city streets the night we arrived, passing by a sandwich shop and stepping on uneven cobblestones, my girlfriend Callie and I stopped to consult our map and our gaze moved upward toward street signs, and we looked right into the illuminated facade of the Parthenon, sitting high atop a hill not too far from where we stood. For the next four days, everything we did in Athens, I stopped en route to gawk at the Acropolis, sitting there in in all its ancient grandeur, calmly and confidently saying, "I've been here for 2,500 years. What about you?"

As a student, I was always a nerd for social studies. To this day, I cry indiscriminately at displays of democracy - seeing the White House (even after 3 years in DC), a candidate winning from a grassroots campaign (even when I disagree with his/her entire platform), the President shaking hands with a reporter, The West Wing. It all gets me. In Athens, I was moved to tears when I saw the Acropolis up close and personal. The Parthenon, the very structure and architecture of it, represents democracy, the birth of western civilization, classical ideas, the ancient roots of the country in which I now live and thrive. Standing on top of the Acropolis, I experienced a small part of the birth of democracy, and it felt bigger than me, far, far bigger than any of us, it felt like freedom. 

It's all for Athena. The most iconic image of the Acropolis is the Parthenon, dedicated to Athena, the goddess of Athens. It's so perfect that even in 30 years of renovations, architects still admire how they got the lines curved just so to make them appear perfectly straight. But nearly every structure and temple on the Acropolis is dedicated to Athena in one way or another. My favorite structure is the Erechtheion - dedicated to both Athena and Poseidon, although we know who really won that battle... 

Olives matter even on the Acropolis. Callie, Jess, and I swapped Greek mythology stories while we walked around the Acropolis. My favorite: Poseidon and Athena both wanted control of the city, so they challenged each other to a battle for it. They met at the top of the Acropolis, and instead of fighting, each had a chance to present a gift to the Athenians in the hopes of winning them over. Poseidon, god of the sea, gave them water, but it was salty, and the people couldn't drink it. Athena, wonderful goddess she is, grew an olive tree that could sustain the people, give them a specialty crop that could produce oils coveted by every other city around. Athena won. (As though Poseidon stood a chance.)

The view is astounding. I didn't expect to like Athens, truth be told. When Callie and I planned our trip to Turkey and Greece, we only planned to stay in Athens for a few days and figured we'd do day trips to other notable sites. But when we got there, with that first sighting of the Acropolis, and the first friendly Greek greeting we received, and the first overflowing Greek salad we ate, and the first restaurant owner who shared carafe wine with us and welcomed us to Athens, and the first time I wandered down a stupendously steep hill to a bustling market (and heaved back up it), and the first time I sounded out the name of a Greek word - finding the alphabet some old place in my memory, I was head over heels. And when I stood on top of the Acropolis, taking in the entire city beneath me, standing on the very highest point built by an ancient civilization to be closer to the gods, I had to fight every urge in my body never to go home.