the galapagos | 2

From my journal... Read Galapagos part 1.

The highlight of being in the Galapagos is falling asleep on the beach and waking up with a sea lion pup or a giant iguana napping or sunning by your head. It happened to me yesterday afternoon. I dozed off, my book still open in the sand beside me. The book pages flapped just a little louder in the wind, and I woke with a start and came eye to eye with a sea lion pup. I jumped a little in shock, and the pup looked on wide-eyed, nonplussed as I scrambled to get my bearings. My laughter rang out over the waves until Zan's head popped up, snorkel goggles still on his eyes. He saw the tail end of the scene and lamented not getting it all on video. It would have been a good one.

My favorite spots and moments have been El Chino beach on San Cristobal, where we saw blue-footed boobies up close and a frigate nest. The water there was a shade of brilliant turquoise like I haven't seen since Koh Phi Phi in Thailand. I was certain then I'd never see water so beautiful, but a few of these Galapagos beaches come close. I also love Los Loberia, a beach on San Cristobal that's only accessible on foot. It's a sea lion reserve.

At first I was nervous around sea lions. They're territorial and defensive; they roar the second you come to close on land. I joked to Zan that they're kind of jerks. But on Loberia, they're friendlier - that is, less likely to roar in protest of your very presence - and the pups are curious and lovable.

And now I'm on Tortuga Bay on Santa Cruz island. It's said to be one of the most beautiful beaches in all of the Galapagos. When I'm thigh-deep in the ocean, I can see all the way to the bottom with the clarity of clean glass. It's so translucent and just the right amount of cold that envelops you until it starts to feel warmer under the current than above that I want to stay in the water more than on land. Every time I dip my head under the rolling, soft waves, it's so refreshing that I go back for more.

Giant iguanas are to this beach as sea lions are to Los Loberia. I like them! They don't care about humans. They do whatever they want. They're also confident, if that can be said of a reptile. The way they stand with perfect posture and their heads lifted as if in a sun salutation - they're the zen animals of the Galapagos. There are 12 giant iguanas around me that I count as I write this.

The one downside of the Galapagos beaches is the horseflies. They are as abundant as the sea lions on San Cristobal and the iguanas here. They're a nuisance. My legs are covered in their bites or stings or whatever pain they're inflicting. I finally bought repellant. Now that I've coated my body in it a dozen times or more in the last hour, I have a sneaking suspicion that it attracts the sun. Burnt or bitten: pick your poison.

I've been thinking that if I were to come back to the Galapagos - and I'd like to... maybe when I have kids - that I'd still want to do it land-based and independently instead of on a cruise. Meeting locals and participating in local culture and daily life has been the best part of our trip.

While I write this, Zan is on a day trip to Isabella island. I can't wait to hear about his experiences with flamingos, penguins, sea turtles, and friends he meets along the way. And I'll tell him about the joy and beauty and wonderment of doing nothing but being on this beach, watching the waves lap and the iguanas sun, and journaling about nothing more serious than this perfect moment -- horseflies aside.

the galapagos | 1

From my journal. These pictures were all taken on San Cristobal island, where the sea lions are in charge.

Zan woke up at 4:45am sick to his stomach. We ate at La Hacienda last night, an upscale Argentinian steakhouse in the JW Marriott in Quito. I'm still surprised we stayed at the Marriott, but with only about 10 hours between arriving in Quito and needing to be at the airport to leave for the Galapagos, it was a quick and restful solution. That oversize, comfortable mattress and plush bedding was absolutely worth it. Dinner at the steakhouse was a delicious splurge, but after eating vegetarian and healthy in the Chugchilan for the last 3-4 days, it was too heavy for both of us.

We got to the airport around 6:10am; it was only a 25-30 minute drive from Quito so early in the morning. It still cost about $35USD, and I can't get over not having a public transportation option to the airport. Our taxi driver was Julio, a nice, friendly man. He and I practiced our English and Spanish with each other in between my yawns.

At the airport, we waited in a short line for Galapagos travelers to pay a $10 fee. Is it for the airport? The park? We pay another $100 fee once we arrive on the island.

Speaking of arriving... we haven't booked a hotel yet. It's high season and almost Christmas, but surprisingly I'm not worried about it. We're planning to wing it, and that's exciting. I made a list of 5-6 viable options near Puerto Ayora in Santa Cruz so we at least have an idea of where to start looking.

As our plane began boarding just minutes ago, I noticed the sign at our gate read: City: San Cristobal. Errr....what?!

We had, I thought, booked our flights in and out of Santa Cruz. To be fair, we booked our flights after hiking on the ridge in the Andes two days ago, and we were on the verge of delirium. Zan pulled up his flight confirmation email (yay free wifi in the new Quito airport!), and sure enough - we're flying into San Cristobal island, not Santa Cruz.

I quickly used the last few minutes we had in the airport (waiting in line to board) to find a potential guesthouse and take screen shots of the WikiTravel page to read on the flight. I have some research with me on all of the islands in the Galapagos so we're not totally starting from scratch.

I'm stoked. It's bizarre and funny, and just the kind of adventure I need to get my slow-moving blood pumping this morning. This is almost as good as my fantasy of showing up at an airport with no clue where I'm going. It's like Galapagos Roulette!

We also lucked out that the woman seated next to me on the flight speaks English and is from San Cristobal. She offered us numerous tips on what to do and see. If my 10 minutes talking with her is any indication, we're going to love the people and island.

Galapagos day 1 - here we go! 

a sea lion at sunset on san cristobal

Missing our flight was the best thing could have happened at the time.

Our 7:00am ferry from Santa Cruz to San Cristobal turned into our 7:45am ferry. After we'd finally boarded, a lengthy roll-call ensured all the members of a tour group were on board, in addition to the rest of us. I'd taken Dramamine, and it was the right choice. The water was choppier than we'd seen the whole week. We cut through swells so high that the yacht flew airborne for a stomach-dropping moment before the jarring impact back into the water. For an hour it was a roller coaster, with all 30 passengers screaming and laughing with every jump and plunge. Then it got rough and painful for those closest to the bow and wet and cold for those nearest the stern.

At long last, we slowed to a lulling stop and the engine cut; the silence was deafening. The tour passengers were transferred onto another boat - a yacht rendezvous in open water. Ten minutes later we docked on our beloved San Cristobal; it felt like coming home.

Zan and I hailed a cab and dashed to the airport. But even on island time and at an airport devoid of an enclosed building, checking in 20 minutes before our flight didn't "fly," and we were stranded. I burst into tears. It seems ridiculous that I got so emotional being stuck somewhere so wondrous and coveted. But we were mentally prepared to leave and get to our next destination and survive the 20 hours of travel it'd take to do so. In hindsight, prolonged exhaustion, coupled with the drugged, drowsy effect of the seasickness medicine exacerbated my reaction.

It took us most of the morning to get re-booked on a flight for the next day and switch into "plan b" mode. Our favorite ecolodge was booked, but Harry recommended a simple hotel. We threw our things on the bed, put on still-damp swimsuits, lathered on sunscreen for the millionth time that week, and played on the beach and in the ocean with sea lions and locals until the sun set.

Drugged and worn out or not, our "bonus day" served as a good reminder that being grouchy, not finding the "bright side" right away, and arguing with Zan doesn't mean a trip is ruined, that I'm a "bad" traveler, or even that the day is shot. In fact, it might have been my favorite day of all. We put no expectations on ourselves to see or do anything in particular. And it was then, when we weren't looking, that we made some of our favorite memories and took some of our favorite pictures in the Galapagos, and on our favorite island, in particular.

We ate at San Jose, the best restaurant on the island, one more time, hugged Harry goodbye twice, and woke up laughing the morning away.

And that time, we made our flight.