I want to tell you this before you hear it from someone else.
You know how rumors get started - one little inside joke tweet raises
eyebrows, and gchats buzz with questions, all,
"like really? did she
really do that? No she did not." and facebook posts get overanalyzed,
and suddenly every instagram picture is like a piece of a puzzle and then the
whole interweb thinks they know exactly what you did in Mexico. So before it
comes to that, I want to set the story straight with you, readers.
I pooped my pants while climbing the ancient Mayan ruins of Coba.
Let me back up.
Alsinsio, our cab driver, picked Zander and me up at 6:00am from our hotel,
Posada Luna del Sur - a great, small place in Tulum pueblo - or town, run by an American
expat named Tom. Tom set us up with Alsinsio for a day of hiking and exploring
two famed sets of Mayan ruins.
First we would head 2.5 hours into the Yucatan to see
Chichen Itza, a Mayan
city center and sacred religious grounds named one of the New Seven Wonders of
the World. After Chichen Itza, Alsinsio would take us to
Coba, the ruined Mayan city only discovered in the 1980s and about 10% excavated. We were warned that
the climb "to the top" (of what, we didn't know) was steep and not
for the faint of heart or weak-legged.
I woke up on the wrong side of the bed; Zander kept stealing my side. I was
crabby, too. Even the prospect of 10 hours in Mexican jungles, hiking on
ancient rock, couldn't shake my sour mood.
Something was very, very wrong.
But as I'm keen to do, I figured I was tired and needed some caffeine and
carried on.
Chichen Itza is a sprawling, well-preserved wonder. The main temple, along
with the surrounding sacred sites, are roped off and kept safe from human hands.
Lizards ignore the "don't touch" warnings and sun on the chipped and
ornately carved stone. We meandered without a guide, appreciating the symbolism
and intricacy of a row of hand-carved skeletons on the side of a sacrificial
plateau, and the rows upon rows of stone columns that comprise the world's
largest column-based meeting area. Naturally, I did handstands in front of the
primary temple.
But my heart wasn't as in it as it normally is. I still felt, let's just say it, crappy.
Heading towards
Coba, we knew we had messed up: we didn't bring lunch. We asked Alsinsio to
stop somewhere quick. He promised us a "not so tourist" joint and
ushered us into an empty taqueria outside the entrance to Coba.
I did not want to eat at this place. My most ornery side came out. I nearly stomped my foot like a two year old.
I love
a dusty, rickety taco stand as much as the next person, but my gut insisted -
no. no. no.
Always listen to your gut. But, you know, we were here.
I ordered tacos con verde. Zan had tacos con something else. I tried a bite
of his; he had a taco of mine.
I was admittedly calmed, rejuvenated, and gaining back some of my normal
perkiness when we entered Coba.
Coba is remote, beautiful, dusty, dirty, filled with lizards and god knows
what other creatures, and raw. It's a raw experience. It is Chichen Itza
probably 20 years ago. I wish I could freeze time for Coba and keep it as
untouched and remarkable as it is.
Coba is so raw that it's interactive; you can touch the
sanctuaries, the temples, the ancient meeting areas. You can climb through
carved out areas of stone that were never finished; what were they going to be?
And after a 2k walk, or so, you can climb to the tip top of Coba - the temple
with a view that spans across the top of the jungle.
When we came to Coba, the temple, we stopped in our tracks, kicking up dust
and dirt behind us. It's
steep. There's a rope attached, to assist
climbers up and down it. The steps are narrow - did the ancient Mayans have smaller
feet? These steps weren't made for my size 10 clunkers. It's astounding and
marvelous.
We started to climb, Zander ahead of me. My thighs burned. Coba is a beast. I kept climbing.
About 3/4 of the way to the top, I felt a rumbling.
Is this thing stable? No rocks were loose. The rumbling continued. I stopped, a foot poised
mid-step. Coba was stable; my stomach wasn't.
Uh-oh.
REALLY UH-OH.
You know how they say before you die your life flashes before your
eyes?
Well.
Before you poop your pants, all the things you have eaten in Mexico do the
same.
I saw images of verde salsa - on tacos, on all those
chips I'd been consuming, on enchiladas, quesadillas - I'd eaten so many
quesadillas! Steak tacos, pork tacos, tacos al pastor, verde... verde...
verde...
verde.
I climbed down. I grabbed the rope.
No time for the rope. I leaped
down the stairs like they were bleachers. One at a time. Two at a time. I
expected an imminent death from this sort of reckless abandonment on this like
40% incline, but frankly, death is less scary than what was about to
happen.
....and what was happening.
It was inevitable.
Believe me when I
say it was inevitable.
I kept running down the steps, fearless. I half expected to start flying.
I reached the bottom and started running. WHERE? I ran in a circle. Another
circle. But seriously,
where do I go?
(Unspoiled ruins are great, and I can sing their praises all day long, but I will
give you this one thing about Chichen Itza and all other well-preserved
historical sites set up for tourists -
there are bathrooms everywhere.)
I used the jungle. In plain sight.
I ran to the side of Coba, found the least
thorny-and-creature-filled nook I could, knowing that everyone walking up to
the temple
could see me if they happened to look that direction, and
lord help the people on top who choose to look down (a whole other kind of
view), and I squatted.
The temple is this looming, giant structure literally designed to see
everything - renegade stomachs beware.
Meanwhile, Zander was at the top, unsure where the hell I was.
So I climbed Coba... again, and I'm proud to say that I didn't poop my pants twice.
Motezuma’s Revenge: 1
Cyndi: 0