wine tasting in niagara on the lake | canada

When I lived in Japan, I got asked frequently, "What are your hobbies?" My students asked me, and my colleagues asked me, and eventually - even my fellow English-speaking friends started to ask me because when you hear a phrase or question that sounds strange at first often enough, it becomes normal, and you, too, adopt it into your jargon. I always stammered and paused. I could have produced a quicker answer if asked my thoughts on metaphysics, and that's pretty nuts since I absolutely couldn't begin to tell you what metaphysics even is (my best guess: being terribly self-aware of one's existence as a block of matter).

Looking back now, I struggled to answer because I'm not sure I really had any developed hobbies. I had interests and likes but none that I'd explored so in-depth as to really give it the high praise of a hobby. I think what makes a hobby a real hobby is your investment of time and energy in becoming good at it - learning as much as possible not because you need the information to pass a test or do well at your job but because you can't get enough of it and you love learning about it.

Now, several years later, I have occasional moments when a silly little part of me wants to go back to Japan for the sole purpose of being totally and completely prepared to answer that question. And since you're dying to know... my hobbies include hiking, blogging, researching and planning international trips, writing, photography, baking, eating carbs, following gymnastics, and wine. Any of you who read my blog (and thank you for that!) could have told me that list, but it was some kind of bizarre self-realization when I realized that I have hobbies - real hobbies!

I took my wine hobby to the next level when Zander and I visited Niagara on the Lake, a beautiful town situated about 25 minutes outside of Niagara Falls, Canada. Almost 30 wineries dot the periphery of Niagara on the Lake, ranging from behemoth producers whose wines can be found all over the country to boutiques where I felt right at home. On our day trip to the town, we managed to visit six wineries - an incredible feat that left me guzzling water for the next several days.

I've done a lot of wine tasting and learning in Virginia wine country, but it wasn't until I stretched my wings a little and tasted another region's specialties that I got enough perspective to see all the knowledge I've acquired along the way. I tasted with confidence in Niagara on the Lake, picking out floral and fruit and savory notes that I didn't know I'd come to recognize. I had preconceptions stripped away: I'd come to think of Reisling and Gewürztraminer wines as traditionally sweet, but when those grapes are grown in cooler climates, where they do exceedingly well, they produce some incredibly varied, complex, dry wines that are really delicious. At Strewn Winery, we indulged in an entire tasting of these two varietals, moving from off-dry to bone dry.

I've never developed a taste for Port, the sweet dessert wine, so I anticipated disliking Ice Wine, another style of dessert wine made from grapes frozen on the vine and a specialty of the Niagara region. I found, instead, that I like it very much, in small sips. We tasted a sparkling ice wine at Inniskillin Wines, the go-to Niagara winery for ice wine, and even the gigantic $120 price tag couldn't keep us from buying a bottle to keep for a special occasion. 

Konzelmann Winery & Estate, situated on the banks of the lake, reminded me of a large Bavarian cottage. Zander said I might be crazy so clearly architecture is not a hobby of mine. The winery offered more than a stunning view and questionable architectural influences - it introduced me to Baco Noir, a red hybrid grape (hybrid of French & North American grapes) that, again, does well in cooler climates like Niagara and Oregon. It's a traditionally medium-bodied, approachable wine. Zander went nuts over it and bought several bottles. 

At Reif Estate Winery, we tasted a fruity, dry $10 Vidal that left us wanting more, so we bought 2 bottles to take home. Wines like that Vidal, that Zan and I drank just the other night while casually watching a TV show at midnight on a Friday, are part of the reason why I love wine so much - it doesn't need to be pretentious or over the top - a $10 bottle of wine can be just as enjoyable and perfect for an occasion as a pricey, full-bodied one can. 

My favorite of the Niagara on the Lake wineries we visited, Marynissen Estates is a small, unassuming boutique with pedigree you wouldn't expect - winning prestigious awards for Reislings, Chardonnay's, and Grape Grower of the Year multiple times over. Marynissen has the oldest planting of Cabernet Sauvignon in Canada. The maturity of the grapes is evident in the body of the wines - particularly their Syrah and Cab Sauv blends. We left with bottles from damn near their entire flight of tasting wines, and they were kind enough to offer us vintage reserves to taste, as well.

The final winery - which was actually our first stop - was Trius Winery, where we enjoyed a brunch with wine pairing that I still can't get out of my head, it was that delicious. Since our visit to Trius, I've been scouring the Virginia wine events list for a similar offering for brunch, lunch, or dinner. Those kinds of pairings are expensive but absolutely worth it.

So now that I've talked for oh so long about one of mine, tell me, what are your hobbies?

trius winery's market brunch | niagara on the lake, ca

I grew up on fried bologna sandwiches, and Zander grew up on soft shell crabs. I'm overjoyed every time I tweak my recipe and taste my homemade red sauce, and Zander feels the same way as a first course is set before him at a new restaurant from an esteemed chef. When it comes to food, he and I come from different worlds. We're both "foodies" in our own right - he's more adventurous than me and loves anything straight from the sea, and I appreciate classics and southern comforts upped to the next level with fresh, local ingredients. We got the best of both words - well-known favorites with a twist and cultured offerings - with an added bonus of exquisite preparation - at the renowned Trius Winery brunch.

Niagara on the Lake is a short 20-30 minute drive from Niagara Falls, Canada. It's a gorgeous old town with a main street lined with boutiques and gathering places. From the town center it's an easy walk to the lake, where baby blue water stretches into the horizon. I wandered into a boutique clothing store and left with two dresses. I get more compliments on those dresses than just about anything else I own. It's a nice reminder to shop local and not to solely rely on my staple of J Crew.

I read a few places before our trip to Niagara Falls that Niagara on the Lake has been voted Canada's most beautiful town. It attracts retirees with enough money to buy old houses and keep them functioning like new. It's also known for its wineries. With more than 30 within and on the periphery of the town, it's one of Canada's premiere wine destinations.

When I started mapping out a wine-tasting route for Zan and me, I stumbled upon Trius Winery's farmer's market brunch. Not the wine tasting. The brunch. Everywhere I looked, I saw reviews and comments and blog posts and articles about the quality of this spectacular brunch with a wine pairing. Zan took one look at the prix fixe menu, with several options available for each of the three courses, and just like that, we had a reservation.

We were seated outside on a covered patio overlooking a fountain and endless rows of grape vines. Our server greeted us warmly and poured us welcome, complimentary glasses of Trius's sparkling rose. We could have ended the experience right there, and I would have left happy. I've never had a drier, crisper, more refreshing sparkling wine - and a rose at that! I left with two bottles and wish I had purchased even more.

As we, okay I, gushed over the wine, a food runner set a basket of homemade breads and red wine-infused butter in front of us. She quickly but calmly and thoroughly explained each of the varieties of bread and the butter. Her explanations were one of my favorite parts of the experience.

For our first course, Zander chose salmon and crab rillette served with Niagara cherries and house made Focaccia bread. It was paired with a late harvest Vidal wine. I chose the crisp romaine hearts with smoked bacon with a creamy parmesan dressin wrapped in prosciutto and served over lentil du puy with a hen's egg. I was served an off-dry Gewurztraminer with the salad. Can I just say that I'm writing this at 10:15pm, and I'm salivating thinking of this salad. It is, hands down, one of the most delectable courses - and by far the best salad - I have ever had in my life. A later blog post will be my attempt to recreate it.

Our second and main courses blew us away, as well. Zander opted for the Bradford Bay capon with fresh Ontario mozzarella served alongside an Ontario mushroom and sweet pea quiche with smoked bacon and apple and raisin dressing. I'd never tried capon, and I thoroughly enjoyed it - it was light but filling, tender, and tasted like the end of summer. His dish paired perfectly with a Sauvignon Blanc. Knowing that we'd be wine tasting after all the wine we were already drinking, I went for the heartiest option - a ribeye burger slider and Icewine pulled pork slider, both with maple peameal bacon, blue haze cheese, and spring cabbage slaw. It came with hand cut truffle fries and house ketchup, and those fries were gone faster than it took me to type this sentence. They are that incredible. Trius's medium-bodied, dry Cabernet Sauvignon complemented the rich red meat perfectly.

For dessert, I went with a homemade ice cream bar served with local fruits and a Reisling Icewine. I have never developed a taste for Port or other dessert wines... but I enjoyed the Icewine. The bitterness of the dark chocolate cut through some of the sweetness of the wine. It was delicious and indulgent. Zander devoured a peach and caramel laced dessert paired with a Cabernot Sauvignon Icewine. I found the Cab Sauv Icewine infinitely sweeter than the Reisling variety.

After brunch, we strolled stuffed to the gills into the tasting room to try the wines we hadn't already. The winery is one of the larger ones in the area, with multiple buildings, an ample tasting room, and vines that extend for ages.

The Chef at Trius Winery knows what he's doing. He has created a brunch with local flavor, stylized touches, and food so versatile it'll make a couple who comes from different food worlds wonder if maybe they didn't, after all. 

 if you go...

trius winery

farmer's market brunch menu (changes seasonally)

cost: $50/$75 with wine pairing

how to visit niagara falls like a local | canada

Niagara Fall is the honeymoon capital of the world and one of the top international tourist destinations. In fact, in 2011, Travel and Leisure ranked Niagara Falls #5 on a list of the world's most visited destinations. There's no escaping the verdict: Niagara Falls is touristy. But that's not necessarily a bad thing. It's one of the world's most visited destinations because it's a magnificent natural feat - three waterfalls with over 150,000 gallons of water cascading over the cliff edge every single second. It's a marvel and worthy of a visit, even though that means battling the crowds to see it. That all said, there are ways to visit Niagara Falls and feel more like a local and less like you're lost in a sea of tourists.

Exchange money... and do it at a local bank 

Almost everywhere in Niagara Falls will accept US dollars, but most places will charge extra for doing so. I call it a "US tax." The exchange rate is nearly 1:1 (the dollar was very slightly stronger when we visited), but exchanging money will save you.

When you exchange your money, do it at a local bank instead of The Money Exchange or booths you might see in tourist-centric areas. Many of the local banks will charge a small fee of $5 with no additional commission. We exchanged money at CIBC and were not charged a fee at all.

Additional tip: try to exchange as much money as you think you'll need. Many banks will charge fees for using a credit card internationally (with the exception of some travel rewards cards designed for international use).

Eat at quality, local restaurants

Niagara Falls is overrun with chain and buffet restaurants with glaring neon signs and banners so big they practically smack you as you walk by. Pass those places by and head to a local restaurant. It might take some research, but finding solid, good, local food in Niagara Falls is possible. A few restaurants that I suggest:

Syndicate Brewery & Restaurant: Syndicate offers customers two choices for food - a bar menu and a three-course prix fixe. The prix-fixe is a downright cheap $22. Options like certain cuts of steak and seafood may tack on a few extra dollars. All of the food is locally sourced, organically grown, and the meat is hormone-free. This meal left Zan's and my stomachs and wallets full and happy.

Napoli Ristorante: This finer-dining Italian restaurant offers up homemade bread with warm olive oil to start, a wine list that boasts some local flavor, and a few memorable dishes. We particularly enjoyed the starter salads - Zander chose a roasted beet, while I had arugula with thin pear slices.

KouTouki Greek Cuisine: Our service started out spotty, but once we had the attention of a server, the meal proceeded flawlessly. This Greek restaurant uses fresh ingredients, fairly authentic recipes (I say fairly because there was lettuce in the Greek salad!), and a nice large selection. Our favorite dish: dolmadakia appetizer (grape leaves).

Sleep local 

Big-name, high-rise hotels line the major tourist strip. Granted, they offer incredible views of the Falls themselves, but you pay in price and your sanity staying in them. Experience the Falls like a local by staying at a boutique hotel, an AirBnB rental, vacation rental by owner, a friend in town, a friend of a friend in town, or a local hotel off the main strip.

Zander and I used AirBnB for the first time, and we loved our experience. For $100/night ($50/person!) on a major holiday weekend, we had an entire guesthouse to ourselves, were able to bring my dog Theodore without a problem, and our host made us a homemade breakfast every morning. Staying in her neighborhood about 1.5 miles from the Falls, we had the opportunity to see what life is like for locals of the town. We watched junior high school students play a baseball game, took nightly walks in the quiet, peaceful area, and enjoyed having a place to call our own for a few days.

Hike to see the sights instead of taking expensive tours

Some of the attractions in Niagara Falls are worth the cost - in particular, the Maid of the Mist is a can't-miss tour. Other attractions and tours quickly add up, and you can see many of the sights for free by waking or hiking to them (if possible). My favorite experience of our entire trip was hiking to the Niagara River Whirlpool from the Niagara Glen Nature Reserve. You can read more about that experience here. At the Falls themselves, while you'll never be able to get out of the crowds entirely, consider walking the length of the sidewalk - it offers unique, different views, and many people congregate in the center, most accessible viewing areas.

Get out 

Taking a day trip from Niagara Falls to Niagara on the Lake (20 minutes) or Toronto (1.5 hours) is a great way to experience local culture outside of the main attraction. Zander and I spent a full day in Niagara on the Lake, a quaint town that has been voted Canada's most attractive. I can see why, with its old-fashioned town center brimming over with boutique shops, old homes, and gorgeous lakeside views. Within and on the periphery of the town are 30+ wineries, the major draw of the area. Zander and I visited six wineries enjoyed our experience getting to know the winemakers, tasting grapes unique to the region, and bringing home enough wine to nearly fill a cellar (okay, not quite, but a lot!). Our favorite wineries are below (another post on this to come).

Trius Winery -- from a bone dry, sparkling rose to an approachable reisling ice wine, Trius's wines were among our favorites. But what really won us over is Trius's incredible brunch with wine pairings. It's one of the best meals I've ever eaten in my life.

Konzelmann - I liked that Konzelmann is smaller than Trius but still has a robust flight of wines. We enjoyed their dry red blends, especially "Canada Red." The staff are incredibly knowledgeable and passionate about the wines.

Marynissen Estates Winery - Our favorite of the six we experienced, Marynissen is a small, boutique winery that has built a name for itself with hard work and wonderful wines. They specialize in Cabernet  Sauvignon (the oldest of those grapes in Canada), Syrah, and Merlot. I loved the small operation, the homey feel of the tasting room, and how inviting and welcoming the staff are. I wish we were closer to make repeat visits.