Not all hikes are created equal. Some have been too long or too strenuous when I haven't had enough sleep (looking at you, White Oak Canyon!), and others just aren't that much fun. I've been trying in the past year or so to figure out exactly what separates an okay hike from a good hike from a spectacular one, to me. I've tried picking hikes for beautiful scenery (Overall Run Falls), distance, and difficulty, but none of those characteristics alone made me fall head over heels for a trail. When Zander and I took Theo to hike to the Niagara River Whirlpool in Niagara Glen Nature Reserve in Niagara Falls, Canada last weekend, I figured it out: the more technical a hike is, the more I enjoy it (by the way, could I say Niagara one more time?). This was my dream hike.
By technical, I mean that a hike includes tricky footholds, rock climbing, bouldering, ledges, narrow crevices, etc. On these hikes, my mind and body work in tandem, and as I duck under fallen trees, lift myself up on craggy peaks, and crawl through rock passageways, I think no human could ever make a playground that's nearly as exciting.
The hike starts near the visitor's center of the Niagara Glen Nature Reserve. Don't bother asking inside for guidance - even the trail maps will cost you! That was our only reminder the entire afternoon that we were near a major tourist attraction. Facing the visitor's center, walk to your left down into the grassy picnic area and near the Niagara Gorge overlook. One-hundred yards or so to the left there is a color-coded trail map. The Whirlpool Path, as its dubbed, isn't noted on the map or on the trails, but you'll follow the blue trail to reach the unmarked path. The hike feels more remote and untouched without distinctive trail markers. Take the metal stairs 100 feet or so down until you reach the base of the cliff. Theo is terrified of metal stairs (I think because he can see through them). He was shaking, but the little dude was a brave trooper and made it down without us carrying him.
Follow the blue trail through moss, fern, rocky terrain, and a heavily wooded trail until you reach the edge of the river. Without trail markings, we though we came across the Whirlpool twice before we actually did. This is one of those times when, "You'll know when you know," is accurate. You can't miss the real deal. At several points, we wandered down the rock and dirt trail to the edge of the water and splashed ourselves and each other. We couldn't help but be excited that we had our feet and hands in water that came straight from the Falls (or was headed to the Falls?? which direction?!).
^^yep, i'm rocking a canada, eh?! hat and a canada fanny pack. gotta embrace the cheesy tourist in yourself sometimes!
The Whirlpool Path is a 5km trail, almost exactly. We knew we'd arrived when the trail that had been steep at points and incredibly rocky flattened out (be prepared to use your hands, as well as your feet!). We stepped out onto a huge expanse of giant, flat rock where names of lovers had been inscribed over the years. Reeds and wild growth sprouted in the shallow annals of water in the deep cracks in the rocks, and it felt more like a scene out of swampland in Florida than Niagara Falls. That is, until we stepped to the rock's edge and looked out over to America, directly across the Niagara River, and the vast, swirling whirlpool. It's one of those times in hiking where the destination is just as good, if not better, than the journey. We shared some water and snacks, and enjoyed the view, the sunshine, the quiet, and the joy of having found a place so spectacular that for a few moments, it was all ours. We had so much fun rock climbing up to higher points on tiny ledges to get better views. There is a whirlpool jet boat tour that costs something like $50/person that sped past us and into the rapids time and again. We talked about riding it, but we got the view for free. It felt good to work for it.
We got sage advice from a couple that hiked past us at the Whirlpool lookout, "Follow the distinctive trail to the wooden stairs. From there, you'll exit onto the main road and can walk the path back to your car, but be careful, the remainder of the trail is slippery." We thought we had reached the pinnacle of the hike at the Whirlpool and expected a short walk through the woods to the stairs. In honesty, I thought it was almost a hiking cop-out to take the stairs and the sidewalk back to the car.
I. was. wrong.
The best part of the hike is after the Whirlpool. After a short but gotta-catch-your-breath ascent, we came to a very slippery rock climbing area. We had to use our arms to lift us up through an especially narrow path through two giant boulders. We shimmied under a ledge that felt like a rock cave, and then we emerged to a 90 degree rock wall with a slow waterfall trickling down. We took turns basking in the coolness and freshness of the waterfall. I wanted to dance in it and jump in it and run around in it, but the rocks are so slippery it was all I could do to stay still in it. We saw two, two! snakes - little slippery guys that slithered right away when they heard us, and I still freaked out but stared at them in awe, because I'm fascinated by and terrified of those creatures.
if you go...
even on a holiday weekend (labor day), there were no crowds on the trails
cost: free to park, free to hike
distance: 3.2-3.5 miles
time: 1.5-3 hours
difficulty: 3.5/5 - technical, steep in parts, rocky (wear good hiking boots)
scenery: 5 (whirlpool, forest, niagara river, rock waterfall, beach on the river)
