brown sugar & buttered popcorn cookies

One year for Christmas when I was still pretty young, my uncle put together a scavenger hunt for my mom. It seems like every year my family would unintentionally (or maybe intentionally?) pick a different person to really make feel special. No one ever had money so these special gifts amounted to a lot of planning and saving and oftentimes, good old layaway. My mom always played down Christmas - "Oh, there's nothing I need! Don't buy me anything. Don't spend your money on me." But I know secretly she loved to be made to feel special. Who doesn't? When my brother, playing "Santa," handed my mom a plain white envelope with no gift attached, we all sat a little straighter, curiosity playing across all of our faces. She opened it to find the first clue. We watched her run around the house, down into the basement, in the yard even picking up the clues. What's funny is that I don't even remember what my uncle got her that year. But I do remember the joy in our house and within our family on that Christmas Eve.

For me, Christmas is about those moments spent running around the house and yard on a scavenger hunt with a smile on your face as big as the lit and decorated tree in the living room. It's about the gifts that took you months to hunt down and brings tears to the receiver's eyes. They're the gifts that are homemade and designed just for that person. They're the ones like a whole box of socks because mine always end up with holes in them that still make me laugh when I pull them on 10 months later (undoubtedly, with holes in them). They're the ones that show you know who a person is and that you appreciate them and that the last year and one coming up is better because they're a part of it.

Since Zander and I will be out of the country for Christmas this year, I've been thinking about gifts and the holiday and what it all means to me a little earlier than normal. We still want to give gifts to our family and friends, and even though it'll be a more subdued celebration, I still want them to be thoughtful. Like maybe homemade cookies and baked goods, wrapped just so, with a bow and a note that says it all.

brown sugar & buttered popcorn cookies (aka- like popcorn, you can't just eat one of these!) from The Smitten Kitchen Cookbook

**i used kettle corn from an adult human-sized bag gifted to Matt and me so i skipped the first 4 ingredients and the first step.

2 tablespoons vegetable or canola oil
1/4 cup yellow corn kernels 1/4 teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon unsalted butter, melted
1/2 cup unsalted butter, softened to room temperature
1/2 cup light brown sugar, packed
1/3 cup granulated sugar (i used cane sugar)
1 large egg
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
1 1/4 cup all-purpose flour
1/2 teaspoon baking soda
1/4 teaspoon salt
1 cup semisweet chocolate chips (optional - i used them in half the dough)
coarse sea salt for sprinkling (optional - i found it unnecessary)

1. Make the popcorn: pour the oil in a medium-sized saucepan and heat over medium heat. When the oil is hot, add the corn kernels in a single layer. Cover the pot, but leave the lid slightly off to let some of the steam out. When the popcorn finishes popping (you'll hear it stop), turno ff the heat and remove from the burner. Drizzle with salt and the melted butter. Remove any unpopped kernels. Let cook. You'll have 4-4.5 cups of popcorn.
2. Make the dough: preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Grease a cookie sheet. In a large bowl, cream together the butter, brown sugar, granulated sugar, egg, and vanilla. You can do this by hand or in a stand mixer. In a separate, smaller bowl, whisk the flour and baking soda. Combine the dry ingredients into the wet ones, thoroughly mixing. Fold/mix in the popcorn. You'll have way more popcorn than dough, but it works! It's okay if the popcorn breaks up. If you're using chocolate chips, mix them in now, as well.
3. Bake the cookies: Drop heaping tablespoons of the cookie dough onto your cookie sheet. If you'd like, sprinkle sea salt on the unbaked cookies. Bake for 10-12 minutes - until you see the edges turning brown. Let the cookies rest on the cookie sheet for 5-10 minutes. These yielded about 30 cookies for me. 

a walk in rock creek park | travel tuesday

Oh, in DC there's the White House and the Capitol Building, the National Mall, the original Constitution document and John Hancock's signature at the National Archives, and there's Dupont Circle and the Georgetown Waterfront and all the free Smithsonian museums. There's so much to see in DC that most tourists and visitors and even people who have lived here for longer than I have don't think to peek behind the stately and stunning neighborhood rowhouses to see what's hidden. But back there behind the urban beauty is Rock Creek Park, the nation's largest and oldest urban national park, spanning for 2,000 acres, filled with trail runners and cyclists. It is a bastion and an escape from the city and, honest to god, the prettiest, most underrated place in the whole of the nation's capital.

Zander and I have kind of sort of started talking about where we might want to live when we start looking for a place early next year. Three years ago, my criteria were cheap, public transportation-accessible, and happening, probably in that order. Now, my criteria is simply this: put me in walking distance to Rock Creek Park. That's it. That's all Theo and I need to be happy. And a wine bar for Zan. (Okay, and for me, too).

Next time you're in DC, put Rock Creek Park at the top of your to-do list. 

Where's your favorite spot to travel in your own backyard?

history & hiking in manassas battlefield national park

I met my grandfather for the first time on Christmas Eve when I was 10 years old. He knocked on the door and stumbled awkwardly into our lives - my mom's, my brother, and mine, without an invitation. A woman younger than my mom was with him, and so you can imagine how my proud, independent mom felt about that. My mom held so much disdain for him that as hard as she tried to keep it away from my brother and me, we could see it on her face, but she still took him in.

He was a gruff man who smelled of Old Spice cologne. He had early stage dementia that turned into full-fledged Alzheimer's that eventually killed him. He rambled endlessly in the time he lived with us, telling us nonsensical stories of war and intrigue. After he died, my brother got curious about those old crazy stories filled with guns and danger and mischief and - did he mention a president's name? - and got to researching. My grandfather was an Italian man turned US war veteran. He moved his family from Indiana to Miami, and it was there that he became a mobster. Or at least the hired arm for one.

But long before I knew his secrets and before he died, my family made the difficult decision to put him in a home. We'd visit him every week and drive the same route every time, the minivan filled to the max with my brother, mom, and me, and my two cousins and their baby. And every trip, my mom would sail on through this one single stop sign, and the whole car load of us would yell, "STOP SIGN!" and my Mom would laugh uproariously and say, "That stop sign's not for me."

These days, seeing veterans' memorials and battlefields is one of the few times when my grandfather and his war stories comes to mind. So this weekend when Zan and I hiked around Manassas Battlefield National Park, I did think about him and his days as a veteran. I felt strange crunching over leaves covering a trail that was once coated in the blood of too many men during the battles of Bull Run, famously won by the Confederate Army during the Civil War. I stood on the site where "Stonewall" Jackson famously got his nickname, and I could've sworn there was a whiff of Old Spice in the air.

My mom never once got a ticket speeding through that stop sign. It really wasn't meant for her.

if you go...

Manassas Battlefield National Park

park in the visitor's center & take the 1-mile Henry Hill Loop

Difficulty: 1

History: 5 (Civil War)

Scenery: 4 (pastoral farmland and rolling hills in the distance)

life lately | 2

During the summer of 2010, every time I heard the song, "Edge of Glory" by Lady Gaga I went nuts. I danced - in my kitchen making dinner, in my bedroom in my underwear, in dance clubs with my eyes closed, in a bar even if everyone else was standing still. I loved that song so much that my friends still text me when they hear it. Life lately feels like that song - like I'm right in the jazz solo - my very favorite part - leading up to the climax, to those notes when Gaga lets loose and you can tell she's going a little nuts herself. I'm right there, right on the edge of the GRE, on the edge of my graduate school apps being completed, on the edge of a big trip to Ecuador, on the edge of everything I want and have been working so hard for. I'm on the edge, and for the first time, I can see the other side.

1. Nothing and nobody in the world is happier than this 3 year old pup of mine on a hike on a fall day. Except maybe me.
2.  Zan and I stopped by one of our very favorite wineries, Gadino Cellars, after a recent hike. I joined the wine club - I felt irresponsible for spending the money and like a adult with my stuff together all at once.
3. The last time I saw a drive-in movie I was about 4 years old, and my brother and I camped out on the hood of my mom's old Chevy S-10 pickup truck and watched Batman. It was a blast from the past and the most fun date night when Zan and I drove in to watch Good Will Hunting at the new Union Market in northeast DC. We ate gourmet popcorn from a food truck and I devoured a homemade apple ice cream cone.
4&5. After buying a bike, I wanted to test my limits and my thighs so Zander and I took the beautiful, scenic Capital Crescent Trail out to Bethesda for an arts and crafts fair. We rewarded ourselves with peach mimosas and apple pie punch at Brickside, one of our favorite restaurants in the area and biked really carefully back home.
6.  My favorite food? Homemade pizza. We do it right with extra garlic, sausage, and pepperoni. And mushrooms on Zan's half.
7. Sonia and I went to see If/Then, the new Broadway musical previewing in DC in November and December, starring the one and only Idina Menzel. The second she opened her mouth and let that first note fly, goosebumps covered my body, and I could hardly breathe. She's just spectacular. Walking to the National Theater, I passed the White House and stopped to take it in.

bearnaise | where to eat in dc

"I figured it out!" Zander and I yelled in unison as we walked out of Bearnaise, a new steak frites restaurant from celebrity chef Spike Mendelsohn in Capitol Hill.

We talked over each other with our theories, laughing, hurriedly walking and shivering to the car. It went from an everlasting summer to an intemperate fall in DC in a matter of seconds, it seems.

We were talking about the table next to us at dinner - two women chatting up a storm, and a man scarfing down his food - and wine even faster - and barely saying a word. The two women seemed like friends who were still getting to know each other at times, and at others like long lost soulmates, finding their way back to one another.

As we received our soup or salad course - the first of three in the prix fixe menu - the group next to us were finishing theirs. The older of the two women, dressed fashionably in a black shawl and boots with sleek, straight hair, flirted with the server just enough to get the extra touches: "try this sauce," and "maybe I should get you soup instead of a salad."

Zan and I communicated verbally about our soups - I savored every bit of the salty cheese and carmelized onions in my French Onion, and he lauded the unique balance of flavors in the creamy fall vegetable soup he tried. And we talked nonverbally about the interesting table next to us... They were fairly loud and boisterous - an excited energy about them.

"What's their story?" we silently asked each other.

We got a few clues throughout the meal.

We observed the table order mussels and banter over whose sauce was best while we chowed down on 14 ounce ribeyes. I couldn't finish mine, but I made a valiant attempt that left me over-the-top (of my jeans) full. But it was seasoned just right, and the server was weirdly brusque when I asked his opinion about the four sauces offered with the steak frites, "I don't know. I just don't like it." But he was wrong about the spicy bearnaise, and it was delectable.

Meanwhile, the younger woman got up to use the restroom, and the older woman engaged the guy - it seemed like she wanted to get to know him. And she referenced a flight in the morning - was she here for work, or specifically to see these two?

The server swerved around to the mystery table, who were enjoying two desserts, and the older woman - I think she was a city woman through and through - maybe from New York? - she said the spices were strange in the apple tart, and that brusque server turned smiley and sweet and wouldn't take no for an answer and brought them mousse instead. 

For the record, we had the apple tart, and the pumpkin spice in it was unique but it worked and it tasted like apple and fall and Halloween and Thanksgiving all rolled into one.

By the time we left, they were still chatting - the two women that is - and the lone ranger braving it alone at the far end of the table. As we put on our coats, we saw the older woman put down a credit card for the entire table.

"The guy is definitely the younger girl's boyfriend," I said as we neared the car. "But was he an awkward third wheel, or was he there to specifically meet the older woman?"

"I think they are sisters, and the older one is in town to meet the younger woman's new boyfriend," Zan finished his theory as we opened the doors.

I nodded. I had a hunch he might be right.

Sometimes, I'm not sure if my favorite part of trying a new restaurant is the food or the people watching. At Bearnaise, both were spectacular.

if you go...

Bearnaise

price range: $23-50/person

side dish pick: bearnaise sauce drizzled brussels sprouts

tip: all wine bottles are $40, including sparkling!

looking forward to ecuador | travel tuesday

^^photo of quilotoa crater lake, courtesy of mrthomson on flickr

My sight is all sorts of set on Ecuador in five weeks. Ecuador will be the longest trip Zan and I have taken together, and the longest short-term trip I've ever taken (not counting living abroad). In researching and planning for our trip, I'm finding that the adage, "the more money you make, the more you need" rings true for travel as well: "the more time you have, the more you need." Eighteen days felt like such a luxury of time when we booked the trip. The closer we get, and the more filled in our itinerary gets, the more time I wish we had. There are hours I spend reading about some destinations in Ecuador when I just get lost, like you do in a great novel, and I dream of moving there. After endless research that isn't nearly over yet (I still have 5 weeks!), I wanted to share some of the things I'm most looking forward to during our time in Ecuador...

Quito: I can't wait to see the world's highest capital city, at a shocking 9,350 feet - fingers crossed we handle the altitude well. Cobblestone streets, panoramic sky-high views, Spanish architectural influence, churches that make my jaw drop, everything in the Old Town, and the equator! We rented an airbnb condo and will acclimate and explore the city for 3-4 days. I'd love tips on restaurants, cafes, nightlife, hidden gems, everything!

Otavalo: This indigenous market a couple hours outside of Quito is on every single "must do" list for Ecuador I've found. I can't wait to meet locals, eat street food, and shop for belated Christmas presents for loved ones back home. Which craft or local specialty do I need to bring back?

Quilotoa Loop: I stumbled across this one, and I'm enchanted. Quilotoa Crater Lake and the loop around it, through small villages, is said to be one of the most beautiful spots in the Andes, and I can't wait to trek there. We're toying with splurging and staying at the much-lauded, award-winning Black Sheep Inn. It's a little beyond our budget, but there's a waterslide! At a beautiful inn! Should we do the day hike from the Inn in Chugchilan or try to trek from further out? We'll be in the Andes for 2-3 days, longer if time allows.

The Galapagos: Doing a traditional cruise is far out of our budget so we're going to tackle the Galapagos independently, by land. I don't have all the details worked out, but we plan to stay on 2-3 islands (Santa Cruz, Isabela, and maybe one more?) and take 1-2 day trips to other islands. Any tips on independent land based tours? We're here for 5-7 days.

Banos: The "aventure capital" of Ecuador, this city is calling - nay, YELLING, my name. I want to do a waterfall bike ride, a volcano bike ride, hike, the whole works. But I have reservations! Everything I read sounds like this fun city is a haven for tourists and expats... will I still feel like I'm in Ecuador? Should I skip this for a more traditional city like Cuenca or Guyaquil? 2-3 days

Devil's Nose Train Ride: Well, if we can get to Riobamba easily, I'd love to do this. Zan hates heights but is stoked for this fear-inducing ride straight down a mountainside.

Amazon: When we booked Ecuador, Zan and I both looked forward to going into the Amazon. Now it's looking like we need to give up something, and maybe the Amazon is what will go... with the thought that Ecuador is really known for the Galapagos and the Andes, and maybe that's what we should focus on for this trip. I'm sure we'll find our way to Bolivia or Brazil on another trip when we can put our time and energy and money into a great Amazon trip. If we do the Amazon in Ecuador, it'll only be for 2 days max. Is it okay to skip it? Should we ditch something else to do the Amazon?

If you've been to Ecuador, I'd love to hear your thoughts! What am I missing? What should hands-down, no matter what I have to give up, go in our itinerary? Or where should we stay for longer? I'm a big, big fan of places off the beaten path, the ones that will make me tear up in awe, the towns and villages and cities with character and personality, the ones that I'll want to write about endlessly to tell other travelers, you have to go.

If you haven't been, which of these places sounds the best to you? How would you divide your time? 

buzzard rock north hike | gw national forest

"When it rains, it pours" is an apropos saying for my last two weeks. My boss has been on paternity leave, putting me in a great position to step up, make bigger decisions, and take on some more responsibility. The other side of that coin is an increased work load with some unexpected, big projects thrown in the mix. After the longer work days, I've been attending the last information sessions at graduate schools, studying for the GRE, fitting in book club, and trying to find time to cook healthy dinners and feel like I'm working to get back in shape. Alongside those factors is the biggest thing going on in my life - my mom has been in the ER three times in the last, well, two weeks. She has had some nagging health issues for years - 3 years to be exact - that have yet to be diagnosed.

I've been this ball of anxious, stressed out energy for these two weeks, trying desperately to shake the internet like an 8-ball until it gives me a diagnosis for my mom. I've called specialists and talked to her repeatedly and I think I have an idea of what's going on with her, but until we know for sure, it's hard to think about anything else.

Every time Zander and I talk recently, he barely gets to say a word. I inundate him with work and my mom's symptoms and my diagnoses, and he listens patiently. And when he gets a few words in, over and over, they have been, "What can we do?"

That "we" holds so much power. It's the promise of, "You're not alone. I'm by your side." It's a powerful word, those two little letters, and it has given me so much comfort.

By this weekend, I needed a break. So Zan and I picked a trail and headed out into Virginia where we could think about nothing except how beautiful the remaining fall colors are.

Before we left, he gave me a thoughtful card that made me well up, writing in it words of encouragement. Before I could even hug him, he handed me a wrapped package, a completely unexpected gift. He had gotten me the very camera I've been eying all year, plotting ways to afford it before we leave for Ecuador next month. He got it weeks ago and toyed with waiting until Christmas but wanted me to have time to learn a few things before our trip. Of course, I cried. And then we excitedly put it all together, charged the battery, and brought it with us into the woods. 

It felt so good to get out of the city and into the brisk, bright daylight. For the first 2 miles of the trail, we didn't see a single other person. Zan and I don't talk much when we hike. When we first started dating, it used to stress me out - is this a bad thing? Do we have nothing to say to each other? Shouldn't we be getting to know each other? Now, I love that it's the way we are. We talk all the time. Hiking is our chance to just be together, listening to the sound of our breath, the wind, and the leaves crunching beneath our feet.

We hiked the 4-mile Buzzard Rock north trail in George Washington National Forest. For the first mile, we strolled through the woods like it was a lazy Saturday. We saw a large buck, and for an instant it was a beautiful sight - the buck in the midst of a blazing red, orange, and yellow forest, and then that moment came to a quick halt when Theo went chasing after him. He came right back, but the poor buck was probably scared.

I took a billion pictures, and like a grandma thought over and over again that maybe hiking in the fall is a dangerous sport - for all the leaves covering the loose rocks (my paranoia after spraining my ankle a few months ago coming out!). But the views were our reward, and in the distance the Blue Ridge Mountains peeked out, and the leaves shone in their late fall glory. We turned the 4 miles into 5 by hiking beyond our turnaround point, until we convinced ourselves there wasn't another great overlook.

By the time we got back to the car, I was famished and more tired than I expected. I devoured a sandwich, feeding Theo bites of bread and turkey, and scanned the pictures on my new camera, smiling from ear to ear.

It's true that when it rains it pours, but every rain storm ends, and the sun always, always comes out again. Sometimes that sunshine is in the form of a we and photographic memories.

if you go...

buzzard rock north hiking upward

distance: 4-5 miles

difficulty: 1-2.5/5 (depending on how far you go)

views: 4

very dog friendly!