travel tuesday | niagara falls, canadian side

While I was in Niagara Falls this weekend, I got multiple texts and social media comments with the same sentiment: "I'd love to see the Falls, even though it's cheesy!" Honestly, that thought never crossed my mind when Zan and I decided to go a few months ago. I must have missed a memo that the Falls are for amateurs or something, because I was un-ironically stoked to see one of the most famous natural wonders in North America and the world. I wasn't disappointed! The town of Niagara Falls has a lot of tourist traps, and whether you view the Falls from the Canadian or US side, you'll be swatting off people like flies, but Niagara Falls is worth seeing, without caveats.

Niagara Falls is a beast! 

Niagara Falls is made up of three waterfalls: Horsehoe Falls, The American Falls, and Bridal Veil Falls. Horseshoe is on the Canadian side, and the other two are on the US side of things. All three pound down into Niagara River, which drains Lake Erie into Lake Ontario. Niagara Falls has the highest flow rate of any waterfall in the world, and the Horseshoe is the most powerful waterfall in all of North America, which is astounding and so, so cool. I absolutely believed it when I could feel the mist from way above the Falls. The biggest drop is 165 feet. I have no idea how to contextualize this fact, but over 6 million cubic feet of water rushes over the cliffs every minute (150,000 gallons per second)! 

When Zander and I first laid eyes on the Falls, we shared a first reaction: that the power is mighty and gripping and feels bigger than life. 

The view of Niagara Falls is better from the Canadian side...... it's also way tackier 

While the US side technically has more territory of the Falls, the Canadian side offers a better view of them. From the Canadian side, you can clearly see the American Falls and the Horseshoe Falls. On the US side, you can really only see the Horsehoe Falls because the American Falls is right under you. The Canadian side has these great expansive views of the entire gorge that seems to spread out for ages. That view is worth crossing the border. 

Unexpectedly, the Canadian side is tackier than the US side. Niagara Falls park on the US side is just that -a park. While we stood under a giant, neon-red Casino sign, high rises galore, and more hotels and souvenir shops than we could count, we looked across to the American side, where all we could see was green. Sure, there are high rises in the distance, but the immediate Falls overlooks seem to be far more natural.

The water at Niagara Falls is more than aesthetic

What surprised me most about Niagara Falls is how beautiful the water itself is. Looking down from the overlook areas on the Canadian side, the emerald water rolls in thick waves with white crests amongst a permanent, billowing cloud of mist. It's spectacularly beautiful. I'd want to swim and lounge in that water for days, if I wouldn't probably perish from the sheer force. 

The Falls are so forceful that they are a significant hydroelectric power source. While it must be tough for towns and cities around the Falls to negotiate catering to tourists and protecting the sanctity of the water, it's amazing to think that the stunning scenery isn't just for our aesthetic consumption but keeps the lights on, too. 

Niagara Falls is romantic 
 
I learned an important lesson about traveling in my late-20s with my significant other this weekend: every trip will prompt an increased number of hints and nudges and winks about getting engaged. I always figured that when I met someone, it'd go with the territory that he'd be in for a heck of a lot more airline and gas miles than he might have expected. Thankfully, I found someone that embraces it, and we've traveled an incredible amount this year. That said, Niagara is the world Honeymoon capitol and just about as romantic as a giant tourist destination can get; I can see how eyebrows started to rise when we skipped town for a long weekend and headed into the mist.

The Falls are lit at night. The water tumbles over the cliffs in shades of red, purple, green, yellow, and the rest of the rainbow, and it makes you want to snuggle close to someone special. Or, in our case, run away from that person trying to be the first to find and take the best night shot. Seeing something that's one-of-a-kind and so rare in nature makes me feel warm and fuzzy and fills me with awe. Sharing those feelings with someone - that's what romance is all about.

top 5 | niagara falls, ontario, canada

I skipped town for a long, glorious, four-day weekend and crossed the border to the land of hockey, free healthcare, poutine, ice wine, and Robin Sparkles - Canada! Zander and I stayed in the town of Niagara Falls, used AirBnB for the first time, took a billion pictures of the Falls themselves, got soaked on the Maid of the Mist, drank and bought enough wine for an army with a drinking problem, and had a helluva good time. I thought I'd start the barrage of posts about our trip that will surely end up in this space with a new feature - the top five experiences from our trip.

Thanks, labor movement for Monday's Labor Day holiday! (Or, since I was in Canada - Labour Day!)

Seeing Niagara Falls, duhh! 

My "near death selfie" was my most popular picture on Instagram and Facebook all weekend..... and I'm confused at that because molars, ew! I think you can even see a filling back there. But I go with it!

What can I say that hasn't been said about Niagara Falls? The sheer power of the Falls is awe-inspiring. I was transfixed by the color of the water - it's a brilliant emerald with white wake and deep blues and light greens interspersed throughout. When I looked straight down, it made me think that this is what Earth probably looks like from space. It's that spectacularly beautiful and unlike anything I've ever seen.

Zander and I had so much fun at the Falls our first night (and the other times we saw them). We were silly with each other and in our photos and playfully competitive about who was taking the best shots. Okay, I use "playfully" lightly - it was nearly a to-the-death battle.

Hiking at Niagara Glen Nature Reserve 

Niagara Falls is a cheesy tourist town. There are chain restaurants everywhere you look, buffets everywhere you turn (is there anything worse?), souvenir shops are a dime a dozen, and seeing the Falls is a lesson in patience and anger management. You can't hiccup without stepping on a baby, was my experience. But if you want to experience Niagara like a local, there are so many ways to do so. Hiking at the beautiful Niagara Glen Nature Reserve got us away from the crazy, overpriced, crowded areas and on an unmarked trail that led us to the Whirlpool - a swirling vortex of water that mixes dead center between Canada and the US. We bouldered, tossed water that had just come from the Falls on our sweaty faces, and let Theo lead the way with his nose. It was, simply put, the best.

Niagara on the Lake (photo courtesy of Zan!)

I have so much to say about Niagara on the Lake, a small town that sits about 25 minutes from Niagara Falls in the Ontario region. The town has been voted the most beautiful in Canada and the one with the best wines. There are 30 wineries around the periphery and even within the town. We had one of the best meals of our lives at Trius Winery. It started off with a complimentary glass of bone dry sparkling rose, and I almost married it and that winery on the spot. And that was before the truffle fries with homemade ketchup. 

Playing tourist 

I loved being a tourist in Niagara Falls. I loved it so much that when we stumbled across a small souvenir shop near our AirBnB apartment with a close-out sale, I bought a "Canada, Eh!" hat and a Canada fanny pack without thinking twice. I bought them so fast I wondered if I was even really being ironic. And of course, I bought Theo a whole line of Canadian-themed bandanas. When Zander and I discovered Clifton Hill, the tourist destination in Niagara Falls, we embraced it, too. We played laser tag (I won!), raced through a laser maze (Zan won), bought fudge-covered rice krispie treats, and almost - almost - rode the Ferris Wheel. When in Niagara....! (I kept the fanny pack. Oh, please.)

Traveling with Zan 

Zan and I had some pretty intense ups and downs in Mexico, and I'm not just talking about our cases of Montezuma's Revenge. It was our first international trip together, and while we had a blast, we had some kinks to work out. This time around, we did a much better job of compromising. So much so that it rarely ever felt like there were compromises to be made. We were on the same page. At one point, delirious from exhaustion after a 15 hour day and probably as many miles on our feet, I nearly cried with how happy I was to be with this guy. I have a man and a dog who are up for just about any adventure I throw at them, and that feels better being lucky or winning the lottery or other romantical cliches - it feels like I found my match.

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willowcroft farm vineyards | virginia wineries

On a rainy, unseasonably cool Saturday a few weeks ago, Zander and I braved the wet roads to drive out to Leesburg, Virginia to taste wine (what else?!). Our first and only planned winery visit was at Willowcroft Farm Vineyards. I'd heard about a spicy food and wine pairing at the vineyard, and RSVP'd right away. For a minimal fee - less than $20/person, we tasted six of Willowcroft's wines and the same amount of bites. We went in knowing a fair amount about pairing wine with spicy food, as we're of the mindset that spicier is always better in our every day lives, but the pairing was insightful and enjoyable, nonetheless.

A basic rule of thumb: wines with small amounts of residual sugar (sweeter wines) help offset the spiciness of a dish. White wines and blends like an off-dry Reisling or Rosé pair incredibly well with dishes like Thai drunken noodles and spicy Asian dishes, in general. Our tasting progressively increased in heat and sweetness. Typically, I stick exclusively to dry wines, so for me it provided an opportunity to appreciate the sweeter side of wine life. 

After the pairing, we migrated one room over to Willowcroft's tasting room to try the wines we hadn't already. The tasting flight is so extensive there are a few options for tasting, including picking and choosing what you'd like to try. We discovered a handful of wines that we truly enjoyed, including a nice summer sipper - the Seyval, and left with several bottles. 

Willowcroft produces quality wines, but the real reasons to visit this winery are the events and the small touches. The winery offers food and wine pairings nearly every weekend - including s'mores in September! But what I loved most is the homey feeling at Willowcroft. We arrived right as it was opening, and a few employees were sweeping the old wooden barn floors and made us feel more like family than customers. 

Willowcroft is the kind of Virginia winery that has accolades and awards to its name, but is so down to earth and proud of its roots, that you might not even know it. I could sit with a glass of wine in the barn loft-turned-rustic-lounge and forget what time it is for a while. 

if you go...

willowcroft farm vineyards

check out the upcoming events 

tasting fee: $10 for 10 wines

white oak canyon & cedar run falls loop hike | snp

"This is the hike that never ends..." I sang to myself two miles into the 8 mile loop that is Cedar Run Falls and White Oak Canyon. I'd slept but a wink the night before, waking up shivering every few minutes in our tent at Matthew's Arm campground. As the sun rose, I blearily opened my eyes and found my arms, and Zan's arms, snug around Theo, nestled under the blankets between us. Apparently, I had fallen asleep at some point between the raging party that ended at 2am at the campsite next to ours and stumbling out of the tent to pee at 4am, and Theo had sought out warmth. I giggled at him, and us, and how ridiculously under-prepared we'd been for the weather, uncharacteristically cold for August in the Mid-Atlantic. 

We started on the blue-blazed Cedar Run trailhead at the parking lot off mile 45.5 on Skyline Drive. I'd done this hike as an out-and-back up White Oak Canyon three summers ago, and I remembered it being a strenuous climb with rewarding views of the Blue Ridge Mountains, dense woods for aeternity, and the show stopper - waterfalls and natural water slides galore. I'd never hiked on Cedar Run so this hike gave me an opportunity to see an even woodsier side of the loop, dotted with shaded areas, lush vegetation, multiple stream crossings, and a few waterfalls of its own. 

We opted to hike down Cedar Run (about 3 miles) and back up White Oak Falls (about 3 miles), with the hope that by the time we climbed the trail to the waterfalls, the sun would be out and bright, ready to warm and dry us after we played in the abundant swimming holes. 

At the end of mile 2, Zan and I emerged from the monotony of the woods - ever stunning as it is! - into an open, sunny vista showing off staggered boulders with a swimming hole nestled beneath. A 10-foot or so waterfall cascaded into the translucent, emerald pool. Another couple walked up at the same time, and the four of us shimmied and shivered, touching our toes into the ice-cold water and daring one another to be the first to ride the natural slide into the pool.

Zander went for it, and I cheered him on as loudly as if it were me out there in the freezing water. He picked up speed on the slide and burst into the pool with a splash that almost touched me, catching the scene with my phone on the adjacent rocks. It was numbingly cold, he said, but absolutely refreshing. I ultimately decided to wait until later in the day when things warmed up - a decision I ended up regretting. This small, untouched pool with the perfect slide turned out to be the best one we encountered all day.

At long last, with my knees shaking, and muscled I've evidently never exercised burning, the trail flattered out. We opted to take the mile-long fire road that connects Cedar Run to White Oak. The three mile ascent of White Oak Canyon has a whopping 2500 feet of elevation gain, and I've never been so happy to be out of breath climbing up. It's fascinating how climbing uphill and downhill work different muscles - Zan finds downhill to be much easier on his legs, while uphill feels like salvation - compared to downhill - for mine.

The climb to Lower Falls was my favorite of the entire hike the first time I did it and this time. Whereas Cedar Run is forested, vibrantly green, and the trail is made up of smaller rocks and dirt, White Oak is all boulders. Giant slabs of stone eroded and worn stand stoically in the water, which you follow all the way to the top. The view gets better with every foot of elevation, and I could picnic and wade from those giant boulders all day.

I skipped the swimming holes once we reached the LF. I kicked myself - I honestly think exhaustion got the better of me on this hike. It took all my adventurous spirit to simply make it through.

The climb to the Upper Falls felt easier for me this time around. It came sooner than I expected, and I rallied, wading and playing in the water, daring myself to get close enough to a snake sunning on a fallen tree branch to check out his colors and head shape (I never did muster that kind of courage!), and rock scrambling for fun.

From the UF, the trail continues upward... and further upward! Until when you're starting to freak out that you missed the fire road that takes you back to the Cedar Run parking lot, it finally appears. There is a great overlook within 1/4 of a mile from the fire road - you're on the right path if you stop there for a photo or two.

On a map, the fire road looked short. In reality, it's 1.5 miles or so. The terrain is easy compared to the rock scrambles and careful stepping on other parts of the hike, but it is almost entirely uphill. Zander turned into the spirit leader of the hike. He kept me moving, even when I was melodramatically certain I was going to nap right there on the trail for the next month or so.

But we did make it back to the car without me singing, "Yes, the hike goes on and on my friend..." well, not out loud at least. 

if you go...

trail map 

distance: 7.9-8.2 miles

elevation gain: 2500 feet

time: 5-7 hours, depending on how long you play in the water

good for: waterfalls, swimming holes, picnics

parking on skyline drive: hawksbill gap, mile 44.5

or start at the bottom of white oak canyon by parking on rt 600

trail guide hiking upward

trail guide local hikes 

slowing down for a bear crossing | shenandoah np

On Saturday morning of Zan's and my overnight camping trip in Shenandoah National Park, a black bear lazily crossed in front of our car, pausing to turn and look right at us, before climbing over the guard to the other side of the woods. In the 10 seconds that it happened, I sat in total shock and awe, taking in his narrow face and smaller-than-I-expected paws and the way he somehow lumbered both awkwardly and gracefully on all fours. I frantically unbuckled my seatbelt and climbed through the sun roof and fumbled with my camera, trying, hoping to capture this incredible moment and elusive, downright beautiful animal.

I didn't succeed very well in getting his picture, but he still lit up my day. I felt the same way on an overland safari in South Africa, day after day, coming so close to a lion, elephants and rhinos, magnificent animals so distant from our human existences, or mine at least, that the sight of one in the wild makes life feel expand and contract like the whole world is suddenly bigger and more intimate at once. There's something about seeing a wild animal in its natural habitat, whether it be a scary one like a bear can be or gentle as a giraffe, that makes me feel electric with life and as excitable as a dreamer and a child, connected to the world and nature in a way from which concrete and man-made isolates me.

like a slow fire burn

you pull me in close
you buckle my knees
i shake and i shiver just to feel you breathe
you trace my lines
stirring my soul
shoot sparks at the heart of the world and i watch it explode

you turn, turn, turn, turning me on
like a slow fire burn
i know that it's wrong
still i run, run, run... run right into you

matt nathanson with sugarland, run

I buried my hands deeper in the pocket of his sweatshirt. It fell down over my hips and thighs to nearly rest on my knees. I watched him add kindle to the fire and dip down low, crouched on his side, held up by his forearms, and blow softly into the flames. Sparks flew, and I wondered at the origin of the phrase, at the marvel of the man making fire. My whole body rested, melting into a chair at the campfire's edge, and there, too, sparks fluttered inside of me. A love that starts slow and clumsy, finds a heartbeat with passion, grows with compassion, like a slow fire burn.

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theo and the three bears | shenandoah sunset hike

"If I'm not at the overlook by 8:15, meet me back at the trail head," I said, glancing down at my phone to check the time - 7:35pm. I had 40 minutes to get just under 2 miles with 300-400 feet of elevation gain. It wouldn't be a difficult hike, but then, I'd never speed hiked before. (I wondered briefly if that could be a new Olympic Sport. Speed walking made the cut, after all...)

Theo and I were meeting Zander at Hogback Overlook, a short distance away from Matthew's Arm Campground in Shenandoah National Park. Our tent was upright and our campfire pit was begging to be blazing and roasting marshmallows. After setting up camp, we rushed over to the Traces trailhead to embark on a sunset hike.

Less than 100 feet up the trail, Zander tweaked his knee, and I convinced him to drive to the overlook, uncork a bottle of wine, and wait for Theo and me to hike there to watch the sun sink down over the Blue Ride Mountains. Reluctantly, he agreed - I'm sure more nervous to leave me to navigate directions than concerned about any danger befalling us.

He might have had reason to worry...

Theo and I picked up our pace and reached the first trail market (0.4 miles) in barely more than a handful of minutes. I reached for the trail map, realizing I had nowhere to reach - I hadn't brought anything with me but my phone. Theo looked at me quizzically, as if to say, "Weren't you the one that thought this through, Mom?" Good question, Theo. We had no flashlight and no map. I knew it was a simple hike - straight up Traces Trail with one turn on the Appalachian Trail. The sun was falling to my right side, so I assumed I would turn right on the AT to cross over Skyline Drive into Hogback Overlook. No big deal. We had this.

The Appalachian Trail was 0.8 miles ahead, and it was already almost 7:45. I ran through the worst case scenarios: we had no reception, but if something major happened, I could make an emergency call. I could use my phone as a flashlight if we were forced to turn around to meet Zan at the trail head. I could yell really, really loudly, and hope my voice carried through the trees? Scratch that one.

With my mind full of what-ifs and how-would-I-handle's, I almost tripped over Theo, haunches raised, blocking the trail with one paw in the woods. He emitted a low growl, and I stopped to listen. I called his name, trying to calm him down - he goes nuts after squirrels and rabbits and anything that moves. But this was different - he usually chases animals, but in this instance he was completely still, hunkered down, eyes trained in one direction. I followed his gaze until my eyes rested on three black bears running on all fours in the distance.

I thought I'd gone crazy. I'd never seen a bear - not even ONCE - in the wild, and I've hiked in Shenandoah numerous times and worked for two summers in the San Bernardino Mountains in California - bear country if there ever was one. They had to be dogs? Another animal? But my eyes weren't lying. Their shoulders were too broad to be any other animal, and they were coated in thick, black fur. These were bears. Fascinated, I watched them run off; likely, they heard and smelled Theo and me and ran right away.

We continued on the trail, and I became even more concerned about the time. Even so, I couldn't help but stop for a second to admire and snap a few photos of the golden light angling through the trees, creating geometrical patterns and prisms on the forest floor.

Theo and I reached the Appalachian Trail trailhead soon after, and I confidently led us to the right, certain the overlook would be a short distance ahead. I gave Theo a quick high paw - we were going to make it! Another couple of hundred feet up the trail, Theo bounded up huge boulders on our right side. I followed him up to a trail overlook with an open, clear view of the sun setting directly in front of us. I admired the layers of the mountains, and the way the sun's fading light shone in between them.

Minutes before deadline, Theo and I emerged from the trail onto Skyline Drive. I saw an overlook sign and bounded closer to it. Rattlesnake Overlook. Where was Hogback? I had no idea where we were. 

I still didn't have enough cell service. Without a flash light or a map, I was nervous to retrace our steps on the trail in the fast approaching nightfall. I navigated Theo to the overlook and tried to flag down a car - hopefully someone could point us in right direction. I waved frantically to the first car I saw. As it slowed down and pulled over, Zander and I locked eyes, and our silence spoke volumes, something along the lines of, "Holy shit, thank god it's you!"

Zan had turned around right at 8:15 to head back to the trail head per our plan. I should have turned left at the Appalachian. Thankfully he needed to go around Skyline drive to the right, passing me on the way back to Matthew's Arm. He, too, had grown nervous and was immensely relieved to find us on the road.

I was only a mile or so away from the trail head on Skyline Drive and a little more to the campground, but hiking solo at sunset proved to be an adventure, bears and all. Next time, I'll bring a map and a flashlight. But man, that sunset was worth it.